Poça da Dona Beija is the most atmospheric of the Furnas thermal baths. It is a small complex of stone-lined pools fed by iron-rich spring water and set among garden walls and trees, with six pools of different temperatures from pleasantly warm up to about 39 degrees. The pools are shallow, which makes them easy for non-swimmers and children, and the rusty colour of the water comes from dissolved iron. What sets the place apart is the hours. It stays open late in the evening, so you can sit in hot water under the night sky with steam drifting off the surface, which is a far cry from a daytime spa. Entry is by ticket, with a modest fee, and it is wise to buy ahead in summer when the pools are busy.
Evenings are the highlight. Many visitors go after a day in Furnas, when the crowds have thinned and the air cools, and the contrast between cold air and hot water is what makes the experience. A small-group evening trip from Ponta Delgada combines the baths with a cozido dinner and takes around six hours door to door, with pick-up in the early evening and a return around midnight.
The group size is small, the pace is relaxed, and the bath ticket is paid separately. It is an easy way to do the evening without driving the winding road back in the dark.
How it works
You change in the changing rooms, shower, then move between pools to find your favourite temperature. Start in the cooler pool, work up to the hotter ones and take breaks to avoid overheating. Dark swimwear is essential because the iron stains lighter fabric, jewellery should be left behind, and freshly coloured hair is best kept out of the water. If you are pregnant or have a heart condition, ask a doctor before using a hot bath.
Seasons
The water temperature does not change through the year, so winter is just as good as summer, and in cool weather the steam is even more visible. November is low season, which means calmer pools, though rain is common, so a bath under a drizzle is part of the charm. Bring a towel, flip-flops and a warm layer for after. If you want a garden setting by day, pair the evening with a daytime visit to Terra Nostra Park.
What to expect
The experience
A soak in stone pools of different temperatures, followed on the evening trip by a cozido dinner in Furnas, with pick-up and return from Ponta Delgada.
Best time
After dark, when the steam is thickest. The water is just as hot in winter as in summer.
How long
Two to three hours at the pools; about six hours for the full evening trip.
Tips
Wear dark swimwear, bring a towel and flip-flops, leave jewellery behind and expect the pool ticket to be paid separately on the evening trip.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Anyone who wants a hot soak under the stars rather than a daytime spa.
- Families
- The shallow pools suit children and non-swimmers, and the evening trip is relaxed for all ages.
- Couples
- A late soak followed by a cozido dinner is the romantic Furnas evening.
- Pair with
- Terra Nostra Park by day and a cozido lunch or dinner.
- Time needed
- Plan the evening; the trip returns around midnight.
Good questions
How hot are the pools?+
The six pools range from warm to about 39 degrees, so you can choose your comfort level. The water is iron-rich and stains pale swimwear.
Is it open at night?+
Yes, it stays open late into the evening, which is the main attraction. Check the closing time and last entry before you go.
Is the entry fee included on the evening trip?+
The trip covers transport and the cozido dinner, while the bath ticket is paid separately on arrival. Check the details when you reserve.
Is it suitable for children?+
Yes, the pools are shallow, but keep very young children out of the hotter pools and watch the time in the water.
Is it worth it in winter?+
Absolutely. The water temperature is constant all year, and cool air makes the steam more dramatic.
