Chamonix works in every season, but each one offers a different valley. The right time depends on what you want to do, how much you mind crowds and whether you need every lift to be running. This guide runs through the year and shows how the seasons change what is open.
Winter, December to April
This is the ski season, and the valley is at its busiest at Christmas, New Year and the February school holidays. In a typical winter the first lifts open in late November at Les Grands Montets and Flégère, the Brévent, Les Houches and Balme follow in mid-December, and Les Grands Montets runs until early May. Snow is most reliable from January to March. The Aiguille du Midi, reopened after its autumn maintenance break, is open for sightseeing and the Vallée Blanche descent with a guide. Dog sledding and snowshoeing begin when the snow settles, and hotels book up early.
Spring, April to early June
Spring is the quiet, uneven season. The ski areas close one by one, the high lifts open in stages, and snow still lies on the paths above the valley, so most hikes are closed to ordinary walkers until later. It is a good time for the town, the museum and low-level walks such as the Dard waterfall path, with lower prices and fewer people, but be ready for a mix of sun, rain and late snow, and check that your restaurants and hotels are open.
Summer, June to September
This is the high season for walkers, climbers and paragliders. The Panoramic Mont-Blanc gondola to Italy runs in summer only, typically from late spring to the end of September, and the Bossons chairlift also operates in summer. The Lac Blanc hike is usually possible from about July once the snow has cleared. July and August are the most crowded and expensive months, with long queues at the Aiguille du Midi, so book timed slots and go early. Evenings are cool, and thunderstorms build in the afternoon.
Autumn, late September to October
Early autumn is one of the best times to visit: clear air, golden larches, fewer people and still good walking. The Tour du Mont-Blanc is quieter, wildlife is active in the Aiguilles Rouges reserve, and hotel prices fall. By late October the first snow falls on the high paths, the Panoramic gondola has closed and the valley begins to wind down.
Late autumn, November to early December
This is the real off season. The Aiguille du Midi and the Montenvers train take their annual maintenance break, many restaurants and some hotels close for a few weeks, and the valley is quiet. If you want empty streets, low prices and a chance to walk the lower paths, it can be rewarding, but it is not the time to come for the high lifts. Check each hotel's dates, including Le Hameau Albert 1er, which pauses each year in this period.
Choosing by interest
For skiing, come from January to March. For hiking and Lac Blanc, come in July to September. For glaciers and the cogwheel train, almost any time outside the maintenance break works. For paragliding, summer has the longest flying days. For a quiet visit, aim for early autumn or late spring.
Crowds, prices and booking
Expect the highest prices and the longest queues at Christmas and New Year, in the February school holidays and in July and August. Midweek in January, in late March and in September are noticeably calmer and often cheaper. Hotels near the lifts fill first, so reserve early for the peak weeks, and book timed lift slots, ski lessons and dog sledding well ahead. In the shoulder seasons, you can often decide a day or two before, but check that your restaurants and lifts are open.
Weather to expect
The valley sits at about a thousand metres and the lifts rise to nearly four thousand, so the weather can differ by thirty degrees between the town and the summit. Summer days are warm in town and freezing at the top. Winter is cold and snowy, with the clearest skies often after a snowfall. Spring and autumn are changeable. In every season, check the forecast and the webcams each morning and keep one day spare.
Our pick
If you can choose only one window, late June to mid-September is best for walking and the full set of lifts, and February to March is best for skiing with longer days. For fewer people and mellow light, try the first half of September.
Whatever the season
Pack layers, sun protection and sunglasses, because the sun at altitude is strong in every month. Check the lift status and the weather each morning. Book timed slots and lessons ahead for school holidays and July and August. And leave a spare day, because Chamonix rewards flexibility.
