Mount Zalagh Hike above Fes

Mount Zalagh is the long ridge on the north side of Fes, and walking it is the best answer to the question of what to do when you have had enough of the medina. A guided hike here takes you out of the stone lanes and onto paths through olive groves, scrub and open hillside, with views over the old city that you cannot get from street level. The terrain is modest, which means you do not need mountaineering experience, but the climb is steady enough to feel like real exercise, and the air is noticeably cooler and cleaner than in the valley. Your guide leads the way, explains what you are seeing, from the Merenid Tombs and the layout of the medina to the farmland and villages beyond, and sets a pace that suits the group. Along the way you may meet shepherds, farm animals and local walkers, which adds a human texture to the trip. The hike works well early in the day, before the heat builds, or in the late afternoon for a sunset view with the city lights coming on. It suits active couples, families with older children and solo travellers who like a physical break from sightseeing. A picnic is part of some versions of the trip, which turns the walk into a relaxed outing rather than a workout.

Hikes on Zalagh usually start with a short transfer to a trailhead on the edge of the city, then follow tracks that climb gradually toward the ridge. Expect a mix of dirt paths, rocky patches and open slopes, with few trees in places, so the sun can be strong.

Distances and durations vary, but most guided half-day hikes cover a few kilometres and take a few hours including breaks. The guide will point out landmarks in the city below, the old ramparts and the distant line of the Middle Atlas, and can explain the agriculture and village life you pass.

Wear sturdy shoes with good grip, a hat, sunscreen and clothes you can layer, because the wind on the ridge can be cool even on a warm day. Carry water, as there are no shops on the route, and bring a snack unless a picnic is included. If you have any health issues or are not used to walking uphill, mention it when you book so the guide can adjust the route.

In summer, choose an early start. In winter and early spring the ground can be muddy, and rain can make some paths slippery, so check the forecast and your guide's advice.

Respect farmland, avoid leaving rubbish and ask before photographing people. The hike is a good complement to a day in the medina and ties in nicely with a visit to the Merenid Tombs, which sit on the lower slopes. After the hike, a hammam or a mint tea in a riad courtyard is a fine way to recover. Check the meeting point, route length and what is included when you book.

Keep in mind that the hillside is used for grazing and farming, so stay on the paths your guide chooses, close any gates behind you and keep distance from dogs and livestock. A small daypack with water, a snack, sunscreen and a light waterproof is enough, and you will want something to wipe dust from your shoes before you return to the riad.