Puerto Ayora, on the south coast of Santa Cruz, is the Galápagos' main base for land-based travel, and it is small enough that every hotel is close to something useful. The choice comes down to three areas: the busy waterfront promenade on Avenida Charles Darwin, the quieter streets of the town centre behind it and the Punta Estrada shore across the bay. Each suits a different kind of trip.
The waterfront promenade
Avenida Charles Darwin runs along Academy Bay, and staying here puts the boat docks, the fishing piers, the ferry terminal and restaurants on your doorstep. Hotel Silberstein is a good example, a mid-range hotel with a pool, a garden, a restaurant and free parking, on the main road within walking distance of the Charles Darwin Research Station. Hotel La Isla sits on the corner of the same avenue and one minute from the bay, with a rooftop terrace, a spa and a buffet breakfast, and is a favourite with couples. The trade-off is some street noise on the main road, so ask for a quieter room, and expect to walk up a few stairs, since neither property has an elevator.
The town centre
A few blocks back from the bay, prices fall and the streets quieten. Hostal North Seymour is the budget pick here, a bed and breakfast with a pool, bike rentals and a range of rooms from economy doubles to family suites. It is a short walk to Las Ninfas Lagoon, the piers and the markets, and it suits families, groups and travellers who plan to spend their money on boat days. Breakfast is a supplement, so factor that in when comparing rates.
Across the bay at Punta Estrada
The south shore of the bay is a different mood: a beach, mangroves and sea lions rather than shops. Finch Bay Galapagos Hotel is the splurge, a beachfront retreat with a pool, a spa, a restaurant using its own garden produce and its own day boat trips to nearby islands. Angermeyer Waterfront Inn is the smaller, more affordable alternative, with a dock, a beachfront restaurant and a cooked breakfast included. Both are a short water taxi ride from town, and both are close to Playa de los Alemanes and the path to Las Grietas, which makes them ideal for swimmers. The compromise is that you cross the water to reach the town's restaurants and the Darwin Station, so check the evening water taxi times.
How to choose
If you want to walk to everything and keep costs sensible, choose the waterfront or town centre. If you want quiet, a beach and a more polished stay, cross the bay. Couples looking for a special trip suit Finch Bay, while those who want a pool and good value suit Hotel Silberstein or Hotel La Isla, and families and groups suit Hostal North Seymour. Whichever you choose, book early for the peak seasons, since the island has a limited number of rooms, and check each property's airport transfer arrangements and check-in hours before you fly. Most hotels can arrange boat days and tickets for you, which is often the easiest way to secure a place on the right island on the right day.
