The Plaza de Armas is the civic living room of Guadalajara. Lined with trees and wrought-iron benches, with ornate lamp posts that glow at night, it has four walkways that lead to a central Art Nouveau bandstand. President Porfirio Díaz gave the bandstand to the city and it was built in Paris, with a dome held up by eight female figures, each representing a musical instrument. Conservative residents objected to their lack of clothing, and the story goes that robes were added. On Thursday and Sunday evenings the state band plays free concerts there, and locals bring families and sit to listen, which makes it one of the most pleasant places to spend an hour in the centre. The Palacio de Gobierno stands on the east side of the plaza and houses the Jalisco state government. Its baroque façade and courtyard are worth a look, and visitors are generally able to climb the main staircase to see the mural of Miguel Hidalgo that Orozco painted there in the 1930s, a swirling, fiery image of the independence leader that is among the artist's best known works. The cathedral closes the north side of the square.
The plaza is one of four squares laid out in the shape of a cross around the cathedral, a plan that gives the centre its open, ceremonial feel. Together with the Plaza de la Liberación to the east and the Rotonda de los Jaliscienses Ilustres to the north, these squares form a pedestrian-friendly core where you can walk almost without crossing a road.
The government palace has been the seat of power since the colonial era and it is a working government building, which means access depends on the day. Security staff at the door can tell you what is open, and a polite request is usually all that is needed.
Working the visit
The plaza is free and open at all hours, and the best time is early evening on a Thursday or Sunday, when the band plays and the lights come on. Inside the palace, the Orozco mural is on the stairwell and is visible from the staircase landing; it is large, so step back for the whole composition.
Entry is normally free, but expect to pass a security check and to be turned away during state events. Photography rules vary, so ask before raising a camera. In the middle of the day the sun can be strong in the square, so look for the shade under the trees and the benches near the bandstand.
Who it suits
Everyone. It is a simple, pleasant place for families to rest, for couples to sit as the evening cools and for art lovers who want a short, free dose of Orozco without the museum queue. It is best used as the middle of a walk, between the cathedral and the Teatro Degollado on one side and the Plaza Tapatía and the Hospicio Cabañas on the other.
After the concert you can walk to restaurants and cafés within a few blocks, and several of our recommended hotels are one or two minutes away on foot.
What to expect
The experience
A free stroll around the central plaza and bandstand, with a short visit to the Palacio de Gobierno staircase to see the Orozco mural.
Best time
Thursday or Sunday early evening for the free state band concert, or a weekday morning for the mural.
How long
Thirty minutes to an hour, longer if you stay for the concert.
Tips
Arrive early for a bench at the concert, expect a security check at the palace and ask before photographing inside.
Quick picks
- Best for
- First-timers who want a free, atmospheric stop at the centre of the city.
- Families
- Open space, benches and a concert make it easy with children; keep an eye on little ones near the traffic on the edges.
- Couples
- Sit under the bandstand lights after dinner and stay for the music.
- Pair with
- The cathedral, the Teatro Degollado and the Plaza Tapatía, all within a few minutes.
- Time needed
- Forty-five minutes covers the square and the staircase.
Good questions
Is the Plaza de Armas free?+
Yes, it is a public plaza open at all hours. The state band concerts are also free.
When are the concerts?+
The tourism site says the state band plays on Thursday and Sunday evenings. Check locally in case of changes or events.
Can I see the Orozco mural?+
The mural of Miguel Hidalgo is on the stairwell of the Palacio de Gobierno, which visitors can usually enter for free. Access depends on security and on events at the palace that day.
Who gave the bandstand to the city?+
President Porfirio Díaz presented it to Guadalajara. It was built in Paris and is held up by eight female figures representing musical instruments.
What else is nearby?+
The cathedral borders the north side and the Teatro Degollado is a short walk away. The Plaza Tapatía and Hospicio Cabañas lie further east.
