Gadisar Lake

Gadisar Lake was built in the fourteenth century as the city's main water reservoir, and for centuries Jaisalmer depended on the rain it captured. Today it is a peaceful place for a stroll or a boat ride, surrounded by sandstone ghats, small shrines and domed pavilions. A grand arched gateway, the Tilon Ki Pol, frames the approach, and from the steps you can look across the water to the fort on its hill. The lake is at its best early in the morning, when the light is soft and local people come to bathe and pray, and again in the evening, when the stone turns gold and the surface reflects the sky.

The lake was dug by Maharawal Gadsi Singh in the fourteenth century and remained the city's lifeline into the modern era. Water here was precious, and the ghats and temples around its edge reflect that. Small shrines and carved chhatris (domed pavilions) stand on platforms by the water, and in winter migratory birds appear, adding movement to the scene. The level of the lake varies with the monsoon, so what you see depends on the season.

The Tilon Ki Pol, the arched gateway, has its own story. Tradition says a courtesan named Tilon built it, and that the ruler could not tear it down because it had been consecrated with a temple on top. Whatever the truth, the gate is one of the best photographic spots in town, and the stairs behind it lead to the water. Walk slowly and notice the way the lanes of the old city open onto the lake after a short climb down.

Most visitors take a short boat ride, usually in a paddle boat or rowing boat, which gives an angle on the ghats and shrines that you cannot get from the shore. Prices are modest, but ask before you board and agree on the duration. Walking the edge of the lake is free, and there are shaded spots where you can sit with tea.

Near the lake there is a small museum devoted to desert culture and folk arts, with costumes, instruments and puppets, and the evening puppet shows are a popular family activity. If you have not seen Rajasthani puppetry, it is a fun introduction to local storytelling. The area is also a good place to start a day tour that takes in the fort, havelis and the sunset, since it sits on the way between the old city and the outlying sights.

Go at sunrise if you can, when the air is cool and the light is flattering, and return in the late afternoon if you want a second look. Dress modestly near the shrines, do not feed the large shoals of fish with food from sellers who encourage it, and respect people who are praying. A visit takes an hour or two and fits easily into a half-day of city sightseeing.

Combine the lake with an unhurried walk. From the gateway, you can follow the ghats around the edge, pausing at shrines and pavilions, and watch local people going about their morning routines. Photographers should bring a longer lens to capture birds and reflections, while those with children can look out for the large fish that gather near the steps. A short stop at a nearby tea stall rounds off the visit, and the lake makes a gentle transition between the busy fort and the hot afternoon hours.