Myoryuji is nicknamed the Ninja Temple, although it has no connection with ninja at all. It was built as a prayer site for the Kaga domain and later served as a lookout and a fortress in the event of attack, and its designers filled it with defensive tricks. From the street it looks like a modest two-storey temple, but inside there are four floors, a concealed watchtower, hidden rooms, secret passageways, stairways that lead to dead ends and a maze of corridors, and trapdoors including one concealed in the donation box. The popular explanation for the disguise is political: the Maeda lords were not free to build a fortress of this kind, so they hid defences inside a temple. You can only enter on a guided tour of about forty minutes, and reservations are required. Tours are given in Japanese, and English information is provided to help you follow, so it is worth reading the English leaflet beforehand and watching the guide's gestures. Children over preschool age often love it, and adults enjoy the engineering.
How to book
Advance reservation by telephone is required, and staff can take bookings in English. The temple's number is 076-241-0888 within Japan, or +81 76 241 0888 from abroad, and the line is staffed from morning to late afternoon. Many hotels in Kanazawa will place the call for you, which is the easiest route if you are nervous about the language. Book as early as you can, because tour slots are limited and fill in busy seasons, and be on time when your slot arrives, since the tour leaves promptly.
What to know on the day
Admission is paid in cash at the entrance, and electronic money and cards are not accepted. Preschool-age children are not admitted, and children's tickets are cheaper. Hours run through the day until mid-afternoon, with last tours a little earlier in winter, and the temple is closed on January 1 and 2 and on days of Buddhist memorial services, so confirm when you book.
Follow the guide's instructions on photography. The stairs are steep and narrow, so wear socks and comfortable clothing, and note that the building is hard going for anyone with limited mobility.
Finding it
Myoryuji is in the Nomachi area, about fifteen minutes by car from Kanazawa Station and a short walk from the Hirokoji stop on the loop bus, or five minutes from the Nomachi Hirokoji stop on the flat bus. There is no parking at the temple, so use a nearby paid car park. Combine it with the Nagamachi samurai quarter and Nomura House, Omicho Market and the castle park, and plan the rest of your day around the booked time rather than the other way round.
What to expect
The experience
A guided tour of about forty minutes through hidden stairs, secret rooms and trapdoors, with commentary in Japanese and English information provided.
Best time
Book the earliest slot you can get; mornings are easier to fit around other Nomachi sights.
How long
About forty minutes, plus time to arrive and check in.
Tips
Reserve by telephone or ask your hotel to call, pay cash at the door, arrive on time and wear socks for the steep stairs.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Curious travellers and families who like secret passages and clever architecture.
- Families
- Children are usually thrilled by the trapdoors, but preschoolers are not admitted and the stairs are steep.
- Couples
- A fun, offbeat hour that makes a good contrast with gardens and teahouses.
- Pair with
- Nomura House and the Nagamachi quarter, then lunch at Omicho Market.
- Time needed
- Allow an hour including arrival.
Good questions
Do I really need a reservation?+
Yes, advance reservation by telephone is required and walk-ins are not guaranteed a place. English-speaking staff can take your booking, and your hotel can call for you.
Were ninja ever here?+
No, the nickname comes from the temple's many tricks. It was built as a prayer site and a disguised defensive lookout for the Kaga domain.
Is the tour in English?+
The guide speaks Japanese, but English information is provided and the tricks are easy to follow visually. Read the leaflet and ask your hotel to help.
Can I pay by card?+
No, admission is cash only at the entrance. Bring enough yen for every person in your group.
Is it suitable for children?+
School-age children are welcome at a lower price, but preschoolers are not admitted. The stairs are steep and narrow, so hold hands.
