Kanazawa is one of the easiest historic cities in Japan to enjoy. It is compact, walkable, rich in gardens and crafts, and reached by shinkansen from Tokyo in roughly two and a half hours, with Osaka, Kyoto and Nagoya connected by limited express trains. The Maeda lords who ruled the Kaga domain spent their wealth on culture, and the result is a city of teahouses, samurai lanes, gold leaf and a great garden. This guide covers Kanazawa city only. If you are thinking about the Noto peninsula, check current local information before planning, as this guide makes no claims about travel there.
What to book ahead
Very little in Kanazawa needs booking, but four things do. The Myoryuji Ninja Temple is visited only on a guided tour and requires a telephone reservation, which English-speaking staff can take, and your hotel can call for you. The gold leaf workshop in Higashi Chaya runs at fixed times and takes reservations online up to the afternoon before, and by phone after that. A private tea ceremony in a machiya townhouse is a booked session. And if you want a day trip to Shirakawa-go, the guided half-day tour leaves from the station early in the morning and is best reserved before you arrive. Everything else, including Kenroku-en, the castle park and the market, can be visited on the day.
Getting around
The city is compact, and much of it can be walked. From the station, Omicho Market is about fifteen minutes on foot, and from the market the castle is about nine minutes further. The loop bus runs from the station east exit around the main sights for a flat fare of a couple of hundred yen per ride, and a one-day bus pass costs under a thousand yen, covers most city buses and gives discounts at about two dozen attractions, including the 21st Century Museum. It pays for itself if you take four or more rides. Electric bikes can be rented from the city bike scheme, and taxis are inexpensive for short rides. Walking times are short: Kenroku-en to the 21st Century Museum is about three minutes, to the Nagamachi samurai district about fifteen, and to Higashi Chaya about twenty.
How many days
Two days is enough to see the headlines, and three allows a relaxed pace and a day trip. A good first day starts early at Kenroku-en, which has free entry before regular opening hours in the cold months, then crosses to Kanazawa Castle Park, walks to Omicho Market for lunch, and ends at the 21st Century Museum and the D.T. Suzuki Museum. A second day takes in the Nagamachi samurai district, Nomura House and the Ninja Temple on a booked slot, then Higashi Chaya in the afternoon for the teahouses, the gold leaf workshop and the lanterns at dusk. A third day can be the Shirakawa-go trip or a slow day of crafts, tea and cafes.
Timing and closures
Check the days before you go. The 21st Century Museum galleries and the D.T. Suzuki Museum close on Mondays, although the museum's free zone stays open. Nomura House closes in late December and on the first days of January, and the Ninja Temple closes on January 1 and 2. In the cooler months, Kenroku-en opens later and closes earlier, from mid-October to the end of February, and the public teahouses in Higashi Chaya close in the afternoon. Omicho Market stalls wind down in the afternoon, so eat there at lunchtime.
Seasons
Spring brings cherry blossom and illuminations at the castle and garden. Early summer has irises and a big festival. Autumn gives colour. Winter is atmospheric, with snow ropes on the garden pines and snow crab at the market from early November through the colder months. Kanazawa is wet through much of the year, so carry an umbrella in any season and wear shoes with grip on stone paths.
Practical tips
Carry some cash, since temples, tea rooms and small stalls often take only yen. Remove shoes where asked, speak softly in teahouses and ask before photographing people. Book your hotel near the station for convenience or in Korinbo for walking distance to the main sights, and see our where-to-stay guide for the choices.
