Nepal
Kathmandu is a city where living religion and medieval architecture share the same crowded lanes.
The valley holds seven UNESCO monument zones within an hour of each other: the palace squares of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur with their carved pagodas and Newar craft; the white hilltop stupa of Swayambhunath above the city; the great domed stupa of Boudhanath at the heart of Tibetan Buddhism; and Pashupatinath on the Bagmati, Nepal's holiest Hindu site. This guide books Kathmandu properly, with Viator-bookable tours for the squares, stupas and temples, an Everest mountain flight, a Nagarkot sunrise with a village hike to Changu Narayan, a forest day hike in Shivapuri and the Chandragiri cable car. It then matches you to the right hotel, from the Dwarika's heritage splurge and the Rana palace gardens of Hotel Shanker to a Patan garden hotel and Thamel classics, because in a city of heavy traffic, where you sleep decides how much of your trip you spend in a taxi.
Boudhanath Stupa
One of the largest stupas in the world, ringed by Tibetan shops, monasteries and pilgrims walking their daily kora. It is a peaceful, photogenic place, best at dawn or dusk when butter lamps glow, and an easy first taste of Himalayan Buddhism.
Everest Mountain Flight
An hour-long scenic flight from Kathmandu that takes you along the Himalaya to see Everest and its neighbors from a window seat. It is the easiest way to see the world's highest peaks without trekking, and autumn mornings, including November, offer some of the clearest skies.
Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple)
A whitewashed stupa crowned with the watchful eyes of the Buddha on a hill west of the city, with prayer wheels, shrines and mischievous macaques. The climb is rewarded by one of the best views over the Kathmandu Valley, and on a clear day the Himalaya rise beyond it.
Patan Durbar Square
Across the river in Lalitpur, Patan's royal square is the most beautifully composed of the valley's three, with stone and brick temples, carved windows and the superb Patan Museum in the old palace. It is quieter and more artistic than Kathmandu, and a short ride from the centre.
The old royal square of the Malla kings, a crowded stage of pagoda temples, carved windows and the palace courtyards of Hanuman Dhoka. It is the historic heart of Kathmandu and the natural first stop for a first visit, best seen with a guide who can explain what you are looking at.
A whitewashed stupa crowned with the watchful eyes of the Buddha on a hill west of the city, with prayer wheels, shrines and mischievous macaques. The climb is rewarded by one of the best views over the Kathmandu Valley, and on a clear day the Himalaya rise beyond it.
Across the river in Lalitpur, Patan's royal square is the most beautifully composed of the valley's three, with stone and brick temples, carved windows and the superb Patan Museum in the old palace. It is quieter and more artistic than Kathmandu, and a short ride from the centre.
A medieval Newar city east of Kathmandu where brick lanes, potters' squares and the five-storey Nyatapola temple feel remarkably intact. It has the valley's most atmospheric old-town streets, so give it a half day or more rather than a quick stop.
One of the largest stupas in the world, ringed by Tibetan shops, monasteries and pilgrims walking their daily kora. It is a peaceful, photogenic place, best at dawn or dusk when butter lamps glow, and an easy first taste of Himalayan Buddhism.
Nepal's holiest Hindu site, a riverside complex of golden-roofed temples, ghats and ashrams on the Bagmati. It is intense, deeply religious and unforgettable, so go with a guide, respect the rituals and treat it as a place of worship rather than a spectacle.
An hour-long scenic flight from Kathmandu that takes you along the Himalaya to see Everest and its neighbors from a window seat. It is the easiest way to see the world's highest peaks without trekking, and autumn mornings, including November, offer some of the clearest skies.
A pre-dawn drive to a ridge east of the valley for a sunrise over the Himalaya, followed by an easy downhill walk through villages to the ancient Changu Narayan temple. It is the classic short escape from Kathmandu and one of the best days out for views.
A day hike into Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park on the northern rim of the valley, with forest trails, monasteries and sweeping views over Kathmandu. It is the easiest escape from the city's noise for anyone who wants to walk rather than drive.
A cable car from the edge of the valley up to Chandragiri Hills, where a temple and viewpoints look over Kathmandu and, on clear days, a long Himalayan skyline. It is the easiest way to get mountain air and views, and works well with Swayambhunath on the same trip.
Hotels we would book ourselves, from splurges to good-value bases.
$$$$Battisputali
Kathmandu's best known heritage hotel, built from salvaged Newari carved wood around brick courtyards. It is a splurge and a destination in itself, close to Pashupatinath and Boudhanath rather than Thamel, and the right choice for a special trip.
Rates on Expedia →
$$$Lazimpat
A 19th-century Rana palace turned four-star hotel on a big garden estate in Lazimpat, minutes from Thamel. It trades modern minimalism for palace halls and lawns, and gives you a calm, grand base with easy access to the city.
Rates on Expedia →
$$$Kupondole, Lalitpur
A large garden hotel in Kupondole, Lalitpur, with a pool, tennis court and a very short ride to Patan Durbar Square. It is a good-value base for families and for travelers who want space, parking and a quieter side of the valley.
Rates on Expedia →
$Thamel
A Thamel institution since 1968 and the traditional base for trekkers and first-time visitors, with leafy courtyards in the heart of the tourist district. Rooms range from simple standards to suites, and it is the budget-friendly pick on this list.
Rates on Expedia →
$$Thamel
A mid-range hotel on Thamel Marg with a garden and terrace, within a few minutes of the Garden of Dreams and a short ride from Durbar Square. It gives you more comfort than a guesthouse at a moderate price, right in the middle of the action.
Rates on Expedia →A practical first-timer plan for Kathmandu: what to book ahead, how to get around, how many days you need and where the Durbar Squares, stupas, Everest flight and Nagarkot fit.
A neighborhood guide to Kathmandu hotels: where to base yourself in Thamel, Lazimpat, Battisputali near Boudha and Patan, tied to five verified hotels from budget to splurge.
