Catamaran Cruise to the Frioul Islands

The Frioul archipelago is the wild back garden of Marseille: two bare limestone islands, Pomègues and Ratonneau, joined by a long dyke, lying a few kilometres off the Vieux-Port with the little island of the Château d’If beside them. Most visitors reach them on the public shuttle boat, walk the paths and eat lunch at the tiny harbour. This trip does it differently. You sail out on a catamaran, with a skipper and a small crew, and the islands come to you slowly, with the white rock, the pine-dotted slopes and the old quarantine buildings of the former Hôpital Caroline growing larger as the city shrinks behind you. A swim stop in a sheltered cove gives you the clear, cold Mediterranean water that Marseillais treat as a daily pleasure, and snacks on board keep the half-day easy and unhurried. Because you are on the water, you also see Marseille the way sailors have for twenty-six centuries: the gilded Virgin on Notre-Dame de la Garde, the harbour forts, the Mucem and the Corniche all fall into one skyline. It is a good choice for anyone who wants the islands without a day of walking, and it works well on a hot afternoon when the city is baking.

’ + ’What to expect: catamarans are stable, with wide netting or deck space for sitting in the sun, so the motion is gentler than on a small sailing boat. Bring a swimsuit, a towel, sun cream, a hat and a light layer for the breeze once the boat is moving. Water temperatures are comfortable from late spring to early autumn and bracing outside that period, and the skipper decides where to anchor according to wind and swell. Children who can swim will love the stop, and non-swimmers can stay aboard in the shade.

’ + ’Making the most of it: the mistral can cancel or reroute boat trips, so keep a spare day and read the cancellation terms when you book. Go in the morning for the calmest water or late afternoon for softer light. If you also plan to visit the Château d’If, do that on a separate day, because the monument has fixed opening days and queues for the shuttle. After the cruise, a drink on the Vieux-Port or a walk up to Notre-Dame de la Garde makes a natural end to the day.

’ + ’Planning notes: the islands have almost no shade and no fresh water beyond the small harbour, which is why a boat day pairs so well with a swim stop. Pack a refillable bottle, put on sun cream before boarding, and keep valuables in a dry bag. Anyone prone to seasickness should take a remedy before leaving the quay, even though the catamaran is steady.

If you have walked the paths of Frioul before, the sea view of the cliffs will feel entirely new, and if you have not, the trip makes a good preview before you return to hike. Check the booking terms for children, group size and life jackets.