Custer State Park covers about 71,000 acres of the southern Black Hills, and it is the best single day in the region for people who like scenery and animals more than monuments. It is also the part of a trip that visitors most often underestimate, so give it a full day.
Fees
Entry requires a park entrance license, which is separate from the Mount Rushmore parking fee. A seven-day vehicle pass costs about twenty-five dollars, motorcycles pay slightly less and annual licenses are available for frequent visitors. National park passes do not cover it. Buy it at the gate, and check current rates before you travel. The Mickelson Trail uses its own trail pass, which the park license does not cover.
The Wildlife Loop Road
This eighteen-mile loop takes about an hour and a half, depending on wildlife jams, and it is where you find bison, pronghorn, deer, elk, prairie dogs and the feral burros. The park holds roughly 1,350 free-roaming bison. Go early in the morning or in the evening, stay in your car near the herd and never feed the burros. The road is open year-round, but winter driving needs care.
Needles Highway
Fourteen miles of granite spires, forest and meadow, with two narrow tunnels, the tightest about eight feet wide. It was planned by Peter Norbeck and finished in 1922. It closes to vehicles with the first snow and reopens in April or later, and wide vehicles, trailers and large RVs will not fit. When it is closed, it opens to hikers, bikers, snowshoers and skiers.
Sylvan Lake and the trails
Sylvan Lake is the postcard stop, a granite-ringed lake with a shoreline trail, seasonal paddle rentals and trailheads for the big hikes. Cathedral Spires is a short strenuous hike of 2.3 miles, and Black Elk Peak, the highest point east of the Rockies, is a long day on Trail 9. Start early to avoid afternoon storms in summer.
Iron Mountain Road
The seventeen-mile road to Mount Rushmore has three tunnels and pigtail bridges, and it is the memorable link between the park and the memorial. It can close periodically in winter. Check tunnel clearances for tall vehicles.
Where to stay
Four historic lodges inside the park offer rooms or cabins, restaurants and guided wildlife activities: State Game Lodge, built in 1920 and on the National Register of Historic Places, Sylvan Lake Lodge by the lake, Blue Bell Lodge with its cabin rooms and Legion Lake Lodge beside its small lake. The park also has nine campgrounds. In-park lodging fills many months ahead for summer and for the roundup, so book early, and consider Custer for a wider choice of restaurants and rooms.
The Buffalo Roundup
On a Friday morning in late September, riders drive about 1,300 bison into corrals while spectators watch from two viewing areas. An arts festival runs in the days before. Arrive very early, bring chairs, binoculars and layers, and leave pets at home. Lodging in and near the park books out far in advance.
Safety around wildlife
The park's animals are wild. Bison weigh a ton or more and move faster than they look, so stay in your car near the herd, never approach calves and keep windows up when animals are close. Do not feed the burros, which can turn aggressive, and keep food stored. Watch for animals on the road at dusk, when driving slowly and using your lights is wise.
Planning your day
A good template starts at the gate in the early morning for the Wildlife Loop, continues to Sylvan Lake for a walk, has lunch at a lodge and ends with Needles Highway in the afternoon light. Fill your tank before you enter, carry water and snacks, download maps and expect a full day. A second day lets you hike, paddle or add a cave tour without hurrying.
Winter
The park is open year-round, but showers, flush toilets and some facilities may close from October to April, scenic drives can close for weather and the Wildlife Station Visitor Center has shorter hours outside the summer season. Check South Dakota 511 before you drive. A winter visit is quiet and beautiful, and the bison are still on the prairie.
Tours
If you would rather not drive, day tours from Rapid City combine the park with Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse, and a private jeep safari gives a full day with a guide and a lakeside picnic. Whatever you choose, carry water, fill your tank in Custer and download maps, because mobile coverage is patchy.
