Hauptmarkt, Nuremberg

The Hauptmarkt, or Main Market Square, is where Nuremberg's story meets its daily life. It lies at the centre of the old town, and for most of the year it hosts a fresh market with fruit, vegetables, flowers and local snacks, while in Advent it transforms into the Christkindlesmarkt. The square was created in the mid-fourteenth century after the Jewish quarter that stood here was destroyed in a pogrom, a history that is acknowledged in a memorial elsewhere in the city. Today the square is lined by the Church of Our Lady, the Beautiful Fountain and a ring of rebuilt townhouses. It is a place to people-watch, to eat a quick bratwurst and to orient yourself before walking the old town.

The Beautiful Fountain, or Schöner Brunnen, rises some nineteen metres like a Gothic spire, covered with painted and gilded figures of prophets, electors, heroes and virtues. It was made in the late fourteenth century and has been restored many times. Two rings are set into the iron fence, and local tradition says that turning a golden ring three times will bring luck or grant a wish.

You will usually see a few visitors giving the ring a spin. The original fountain figures were removed for protection during the war and replaced with copies, which is a good example of the way the old town's heritage has been preserved.

On the east side stands the Church of Our Lady, the Frauenkirche, built under Emperor Charles IV in the 1350s. Its gable has a mechanical clock called the Männleinlaufen, in which a group of electors parades around the seated emperor every day at noon to the sound of trumpets and bells. The show is short and the crowd is often large, so arrive a few minutes early to find a spot. Charles IV had the church built as a court chapel, and it is a reminder of the central place of Nuremberg in imperial politics.

The square is lively and works for any visit length. Browse the stalls in the morning for local produce, pick up a snack from a vendor and listen for the bells. Stay aware of pickpockets in busy periods. From the Hauptmarkt you can walk to the castle, the churches and the Pegnitz river in minutes, and the shops in the surrounding lanes sell gingerbread and crafts. The square is also the stage for the Christmas market opening, so expect restricted access in Advent and plan around events. It is free to visit at any time.

Arriving in the evening has its own pleasures. The square is quieter, the church is floodlit and the fountain's gilding catches the light, which makes it a popular place for a photograph. During the Christmas market, the whole square glows with lights, and the opening-night ceremony from the church balcony is a spectacle that draws crowds from across the region.

Outside the market season, cafes with outdoor tables in the surrounding streets provide a good view of the square. Wherever you start your old-town exploration, returning to the Hauptmarkt at different times of day shows how much the same space can change.