The Etla Valley lies to the north-west of Oaxaca and is one of the three central valleys that meet at the city. It is greener and gentler than the dry eastern valley, and it is known for dairy farming, rural villages and a lively art scene that has grown up in its small towns. The valley is the home of quesillo, the stretchy white cheese that is pulled into balls and ribbons and stuffed into tlayudas and quesadillas all over the state. A visit lets you see how milk is turned into cheese, and taste it fresh. The valley is also known for handmade paper, made from plant fibres and flowers pressed into sheets, and for the work of contemporary artists who have set up studios and galleries in converted buildings. A guided workshop typically combines these elements, with a visit to a cheese maker, a paper-making session in which you create your own sheets, and a stop to see art in a village studio or arts centre. It is quiet, rural and a welcome contrast with the busy markets, and it suits curious travellers who prefer to make and taste things than to ride past them in a coach.
The cheese
Quesillo is made by heating curds, stretching them into long ribbons and winding them into balls, a process that you can watch and even try. Etla has a long reputation for dairy, and its small makers sell cheese, cream and fresh butter in the town's market. Expect to taste the cheese on its own and with tortillas or salsa, and you may see other local products such as fresh cream and regional breads. Ask what is in season, because the fresh cheese is at its best on the day it is made.
The paper and the art
Handmade paper in the valley is made from fibres such as cotton, banana and local plants, and the workshops let you create sheets with pressed flowers or leaves. You will usually be shown the process from pulp to finished sheet and take your paper home once it has dried. The valley has also become known for its arts, with a cultural centre in a former textile mill in San Agustín Etla and studios run by painters, printmakers and sculptors, so the visit can include a wander through an exhibition or a studio.
Planning
The valley is about forty minutes from the city, and the roads are good. Tours normally run for a half or full day and include transfers, tastings and the workshops, so it is easy to arrange from your hotel. Wear comfortable clothes, bring a hat and be prepared for cool mornings and warm afternoons.
The valley is a good option for travellers who have already seen the main ruins and markets and want a quieter day, or for families and groups who like hands-on activities. Combine it with a late lunch in the valley or return to the city for an evening in the plaza.
Good to know
Tell the organiser in advance if you cannot eat dairy, since the day centres on cheese, and wear clothes that can get a little wet during the paper-making session. Bring a bag to carry your paper and any cheese you buy, and keep fresh cheese cool if you plan to take it back to your hotel. The valley is quieter than the eastern valley, so it is a restful choice after a busy day.
What to expect
The experience
A guided half day in the Etla Valley with a cheese-making visit, a paper-making workshop and a stop at an art space.
Best time
Morning to early afternoon, any time of year, with greener scenery after the rains.
How long
About four to five hours including transfers.
Tips
Wear comfortable clothes, bring a hat and cash for cheese or paper, and ask about dietary needs.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Curious travellers who like making and tasting things in a quiet rural setting.
- Families
- Children enjoy pulling cheese and pressing paper, and the pace is relaxed.
- Couples
- A calm, creative day away from the crowds.
- Pair with
- A late lunch in the valley and an evening stroll back in the centre.
- Time needed
- Half a day.
Good questions
What is quesillo?+
Quesillo is Oaxaca's stretchy white cheese, wound into balls and used in tlayudas, quesadillas and many other dishes.
Where is the Etla Valley?+
It lies north-west of Oaxaca, about forty minutes by road from the city.
Do I keep what I make?+
Yes, you usually take home the paper you make once it has dried.
Is it a good day for children?+
Yes, the hands-on activities and the animals and open spaces suit most children.
Is it a long journey?+
No, the drive is short and the roads are good, so it fits into a half day.
