Two markets sit a minute from the Zócalo and between them hold much of what makes Oaxacan cooking famous. Mercado Benito Juárez is the browsing market, with stalls of dried chiles, fresh cheese, bread, mole pastes, chocolate and tropical fruit stacked in bright piles. Next door, Mercado 20 de Noviembre is the eating market, centred on a long corridor of smoke where you choose raw meats and are served them hot off charcoal grills with tortillas, salsas and grilled onions, alongside counters of tamales, moles, soups and fresh juices. A food tour makes this world far easier to read, because a guide explains the ingredients, the regional dishes and the etiquette and leads you to the stalls most worth trying. A typical outing combines market tasting with explanations of chocolate, mole and tlayuda, and some tours add visits to other neighbourhood stalls. It is a rewarding introduction for anyone who wants to eat well without guessing and a good first morning in the city. The larger Central de Abastos, on the edge of town, is a sprawling wholesale market and best saved for a guided visit.
Eating tips
Look for stalls that are busy with locals, ask what is freshest, and try small portions of several things rather than a large plate of one. Specialities to chase include tlayudas, large crisp tortillas with beans and cheese, memelas, tamales wrapped in banana leaf, quesillo, chocolate drinks and, for the adventurous, chapulines, seasoned grasshoppers sold by the scoop. Mezcal sellers offer small sips, and you will find local bread and sweets at the edges.
Etiquette and comfort
Markets are crowded and warm, so wear light clothes, carry small change in pesos and keep bags close. Photograph food politely and ask before pointing a camera at vendors. If you have dietary needs, a guide can help communicate them, and vegetarians will find plenty of options once they know what to ask for. Go early for freshness and fewer people, as the grill hall can be very busy at lunch.
A guided tour is best taken on your first or second morning, because it gives you the vocabulary and confidence to eat on your own for the rest of the trip. After the tasting, walk the short distance to the Zócalo for coffee, or head to the cooking class and mezcal experiences described elsewhere in this guide. Check the tour's meeting point and language before choosing, and allow for several hours.
What to expect
The experience
A guided walk through the covered markets with stops to taste moles, tlayudas, chocolate and other Oaxacan specialities.
Best time
Morning, when produce is freshest and the markets are less crowded than at lunch.
How long
Roughly three to four hours with tastings.
Tips
Come hungry, bring small pesos, wear closed shoes, and tell your guide about any allergies or dietary needs.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Food lovers who want to understand Oaxacan cooking and eat well straight away.
- Families
- Children enjoy the colours and the tortillas, but the markets are crowded and warm.
- Couples
- A shared tasting morning followed by a coffee on the plaza is an easy first-day plan.
- Pair with
- The Zócalo, the Oaxacan cooking class and a mezcal tasting.
- Time needed
- A morning.
Good questions
Which markets should I visit?+
Start with Mercado Benito Juárez for produce and treats and Mercado 20 de Noviembre for the grilled meat hall and soups. Both are within minutes of the Zócalo.
What should I try first?+
Tlayudas, memelas, tamales, quesillo and a hot chocolate are good starting points. A guide will help you choose the best stalls.
Is it safe to eat at the stalls?+
Choose busy stalls where food is cooked in front of you, and drink bottled or purified water. A guided tour is a gentle way to begin.
Can vegetarians eat well?+
Yes, many dishes use beans, cheese, squash blossoms and mushrooms, and a guide can help you order without meat.
What is Central de Abastos?+
It is the huge wholesale market on the edge of the city, much bigger than the central ones. It is best explored with a guide because it is easy to get lost.
