Panama City is one of the most interesting places to eat in Central America, because it is a crossroads. Spanish colonial cooking, Afro-Caribbean traditions, Indigenous ingredients and the tastes of generations of canal workers and migrants have all left their mark, and a modern restaurant scene has grown up on top of them. You can eat well here at every price, from market counters and fondas to polished tasting menus. This guide covers the dishes worth trying and the best ways to taste them.
Dishes to try
Start with ceviche, the city's signature seafood dish, made with fresh fish cured in lime and served cold with onion, chilli and crackers or plantain chips. Sancocho, a comforting chicken and root vegetable soup, is the national comfort food and is often eaten for lunch or when someone is unwell. Look for arroz con pollo, rice with chicken, fried fish with coconut rice from the Caribbean coast, patacones, which are twice-fried green plantain discs, carimanolas, yuca fritters stuffed with meat, and hojaldras, fried dough often eaten for breakfast. For something sweet, try tres leches cake and fresh tropical fruit, and drink a cup of Panamanian coffee, which is grown in the western highlands and has become world famous.
Where to eat by area
Casco Viejo has the biggest concentration of restaurants, cafes and rooftop bars, from relaxed courtyard cafes to creative modern kitchens, and it is the easiest place to eat well on foot. The modern districts around Calle Uruguay and the bayfront have a lively restaurant and nightlife scene, with international cuisine and cocktail bars. For something more local, head to the markets and the simple eateries known as fondas, where a plate of the day is hearty, filling and good value. The seafood market near Casco Viejo is the place to eat fresh ceviche from a counter, and it is lively at lunchtime. Ask your hotel for current recommendations, because the restaurant scene changes quickly.
Food tours and classes
The best way to learn what to order is to start with a guided tasting. A Casco Viejo food and walking tour takes you through the old town stopping at several places for small plates and drinks, explaining the history as you go, and it works as dinner as well as an introduction. A Panamanian cooking class with a market visit goes deeper, taking you through the ingredients and techniques and ending with a shared meal. Both are good first-day activities, because they teach you the dishes and the vocabulary and leave you with a list of places to return to.
Drinks and nightlife
The national spirit is seco, a sugar cane spirit, usually served with milk and ice in a drink called seco con leche, and there is a growing craft cocktail scene, with bars in Casco Viejo using local rum, fruit and herbs. Panama has several good local beers, and cold lager is the standard refreshment on a hot day. Rooftop bars in the old town are popular at sunset for their views over the rooftops and the bay, and live music, from salsa to jazz, can be found in several venues. For a social evening, combine a salsa class with a late dinner. Order water with meals and take care with ice in very informal places if you have a sensitive stomach.
Practical tips
Lunch is the main meal for many locals, and set lunch menus at midday are often good value. Dinner starts late in the better restaurants. Tipping is customary, and some restaurants add a service charge, so check the bill. Book ahead for popular restaurants at weekends and in the dry season from roughly December to April. If you have dietary needs, tell the host in advance, because vegetarian options are growing but seafood and meat dominate traditional menus. Carry small bills for market stalls and taxis, and use hand sanitiser before eating street food.
Putting it together
A good food plan for three days is a market and cooking class on the first morning, a Casco Viejo food walk or sunset rooftop drink on the first evening, seafood and a long lunch on the second day after a nature trip and a final night with a table booked at a restaurant you discovered along the way. Stay in Casco Viejo if you want the best restaurants on your doorstep, in a hotel such as the Central Hotel Panama or the American Trade Hotel.