Behind a plain street front near the walls, Palazzo Pfanner hides the most elegant private garden in Lucca. The Baroque palace stands in the north-east of the old town, between the Renaissance ramparts and the medieval streets, and it has the feeling of a place where time has stopped. The garden was laid out in the early eighteenth century and is attributed to the architect Filippo Juvarra, one of the great names of Italian Baroque. It is an Italian-style formal garden, with gravel paths, clipped hedges, flowerbeds, classical statues, lemon trees in terracotta pots and a central fountain, and it is overlooked by the palace’s grand outer staircase and by the line of the city walls just beyond. Many visitors find it the most peaceful corner of Lucca, and it is a favourite subject for photographers.
Inside the palace
The rooms of the piano nobile are open as a museum, with frescoed ceilings, period furniture and decorative arts that show how a wealthy Lucchese family lived. There are also medical and surgical instruments that belonged to Dr Pietro Pfanner, a reminder that the palace was home to a real family long after its Baroque heyday. The collection is small, so a visit to the interior takes less time than the garden, but the frescoes and furnishings are worth a slow look.
The garden
This is the main attraction. Walk slowly along the gravel paths, look at the statues, which represent figures from classical mythology, and sit by the fountain, where the sound of water muffles the noise of the city. The lemon trees stand in rows in their terracotta pots, and in the cooler months they are often moved under cover, so the layout changes with the seasons. From the garden, the palace facade and the green line of the walls make a beautiful backdrop.
How to visit
Tickets for the garden and museum are sold online and at the entrance, and opening times change with the season, with shorter hours in winter and longer ones in spring and summer. The garden is usually closed on certain holidays, and special events can lead to temporary closures, so check before you go.
The ticket linked here is for a guided Lucca tour that includes a visit to the palace, a convenient option if you would like a local guide to put the family and the garden in context. Allow around an hour for the visit on its own.
Nearby
The palazzo sits close to San Frediano and the north-eastern stretch of the walls, so it combines well with the church, a walk on the ramparts and lunch around Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. It is also close to the Botanical Garden on the other side of the old town if you want a second green space. Visit in the morning for the calmest atmosphere, or in late afternoon when the sun lights the facade.
Extra context
The garden is small enough to see in a short time, but it rewards patience. Sit on a bench for a few minutes and notice how the formal layout leads the eye from the palace staircase to the fountain and the statues, and how the old city wall frames the far side. Photographers should bring a wide lens for the long views and a short zoom for the sculptures, and should come in the morning for softer shadows.
What to expect
The experience
A guided Lucca tour that includes a visit to a Baroque palace and its formal garden, with frescoed rooms and a small collection inside.
Best time
Morning for the calmest garden, or late afternoon for warm light on the facade, and spring to early autumn for the fullest garden.
How long
Around an hour for the palace and garden, longer as part of a guided tour of the city.
Tips
Check seasonal opening hours, allow time to sit by the fountain and look closely at the statues and lemon trees.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Garden lovers, couples and anyone who enjoys Baroque interiors and a calm escape from the busy streets.
- Families
- The garden is gentle and pretty, though the formal setting and museum suit older children better than toddlers.
- Couples
- A quiet, romantic setting, ideal for a slow afternoon before an aperitivo.
- Pair with
- San Frediano, the north-eastern walls and lunch around Piazza dell’Anfiteatro.
- Time needed
- About an hour for the palace and garden together.
Good questions
What is Palazzo Pfanner known for?+
Its formal Italian-style garden, attributed to Filippo Juvarra, with statues, lemon trees in terracotta pots and a central fountain, and its frescoed museum rooms.
Where is Palazzo Pfanner?+
In the north-east part of Lucca’s old town, between the Renaissance walls and the medieval streets, a short walk from San Frediano.
How long does a visit to Palazzo Pfanner take?+
About an hour is enough for the palace and the garden. Allow longer if you want to sit and enjoy the garden.
Does the garden change with the seasons?+
Yes. The flowerbeds and lemon trees look best from spring to early autumn, and opening hours are shorter in winter.
Is the garden open every day?+
It is generally open daily in the visiting season, but it closes on some holidays and for special events, so check before you go.
