Sicilians will tell you the island's cuisine is its greatest monument, and a good meal here makes a persuasive case. The food reflects the same layers of history as the architecture, with Greek olive oil and wine, Arab citrus, sugar and spices, Spanish chocolate and tomatoes and a huge dose of fresh produce and seafood. You can eat superbly at every price, from a paper bag of fried street snacks to a long tasting menu. Here is how to get the most out of it.
Palermo street food
Palermo is one of Europe's great street food cities, and the best way in is a walking tour through the markets of Ballarò, Capo and the Vucciria area. Look out for panelle, thin fritters of chickpea flour, usually served in a soft sesame roll with crocche, potato croquettes. Pani ca meusa is a spleen sandwich, a historic speciality that is more approachable than it sounds, and sfincione is a thick, spongy pizza topped with tomato, onion and breadcrumbs. Arancine, the fried rice balls, are filled with ragù or butter and ham. Do not be shy at the stalls, because pointing and smiling gets you far.
Catania and the east
In Catania, the fish market is a theatre of shouting vendors and silver fish, and the nearby bars serve arancini that are cone-shaped, in a nod to Etna, rather than round. Pasta alla Norma, with tomato, fried aubergine and salted ricotta, is the local classic, said to be named after Bellini's opera. Horse meat is a local speciality in some old-town grills, and fresh seafood is excellent. In Taormina and the coastal towns, expect more polished restaurants with sea views, and be ready for higher prices.
Pastries, granita and breakfast
A Sicilian breakfast in summer is a granita, a semi-frozen ice made from lemon, almond, coffee or mulberry, eaten with a warm brioche, often scooped inside the bun. Cannoli, crisp shells filled with sweet ricotta, are best when filled to order, and cassata, a rich sponge cake with ricotta and candied fruit, is a festive classic. Marzipan fruits, known as frutta martorana, appear in pastry shop windows, and in the southeast Modica chocolate is made in a grainy, cold-ground style. A good rule is to eat pastries where there is a queue of locals.
Pasta, seafood and mains
Pasta con le sarde, with sardines, wild fennel, pine nuts and raisins, is the dish that best sums up Sicily's mix of Arab and Mediterranean influences. Busiate, a hand-rolled twisted pasta, comes with pesto trapanese made from almonds, tomatoes and basil, while spaghetti ai ricci uses sea urchin and is a seasonal treat. Along the west coast, couscous with fish broth is a reminder of the island's links with North Africa. Swordfish, tuna and sea bream are common, and caponata, the sweet and sour aubergine dish, appears everywhere as a starter.
Wine
Sicilian wine has come a long way. On the slopes of Mount Etna, vines grow in volcanic soil at altitude, producing mineral red wines from the nerello mascalese grape and crisp whites from carricante, and many estates offer tastings, often included in Etna excursions. Nero d'Avola is the island's signature red, fruity and warm, and Grillo and Catarratto make fresh whites in the west. Marsala, from the far west, is a fortified wine that goes far beyond its cooking reputation, and Passito di Pantelleria and malvasia from the Aeolian Islands are fine sweet wines to finish a meal.
How to eat like a local
Lunch is the main meal and often runs long, and dinner starts late, usually after eight. Many restaurants close between the two meals, so plan accordingly. A cover charge for bread is standard, and tips are modest. Avoid menus with photos on the main tourist squares, and walk a street or two away for better value. Book ahead for popular restaurants in Taormina and Ortigia, and ask what the day's fish is, because the best seafood is often not on the printed menu. Above all, order a little of everything and share.
Eating on a budget
Some of the island's best food costs very little. A street food lunch of panelle, arancine and a sfincione slice can feed two for a modest sum, and bakeries sell savoury pastries and pizza by the slice. A coffee at the bar is cheaper standing up than sitting down. For dinner, trattorias away from the main squares serve generous portions of pasta and grilled fish, and a carafe of house wine is usually perfectly drinkable. Save the splurge for one special meal.
