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First-Timer's Guide to Sorrento and Capri

Sorrento & Capri guide

First-Timer's Guide to Sorrento and Capri

A practical first-visit plan for Sorrento, Capri and the Amalfi Coast in low season: what to book ahead, how the boats and trains work, and which sights fit together.

Sorrento is the easiest base on the bay. It has a walkable old centre, a harbour with boats to Capri, a train station for Pompeii and Naples, and buses for the Amalfi Drive. Capri is a short crossing away, the Amalfi villages are a day trip along a famous road, and Pompeii is about half an hour by train. The catch for a November visit is that this is low season: many boats run reduced timetables or stop, the Blue Grotto is often closed, some hotels and beach clubs have shut for the winter, and the days are short. A good plan keeps every outdoor day flexible and has an indoor backup.

What to book ahead

Very little needs to be booked months in advance in November, which is the great advantage of the season. Book your hotel early, because several of the best properties close for winter and the choice narrows. Book the Amalfi Coast day trip and your Pompeii visit for dates a few days out, once you can see the forecast, and keep them refundable. A cooking class is worth reserving for a weekend evening. Villa San Michele and the Gardens of Augustus are walk-up sights with short winter hours, so they need timing rather than booking, though an entry ticket for the villa saves queuing at the gate.

Getting around

In Sorrento you can walk almost everywhere, and the Sorrento lift links the town to the port. For Pompeii, Herculaneum and Naples, take the Circumvesuviana train from the station, which runs frequently and costs little. For the Amalfi Coast, a guided day trip avoids driving the narrow cliff road, and local buses also run along it. For Capri, boats and hydrofoils leave from the Sorrento port, but timetables thin in winter and rough sea cancels sailings, so check the day before and leave slack at both ends. On the island, a funicular links Marina Grande with Capri town, and buses climb to Anacapri.

How many days

Three nights is the minimum to see Sorrento, one Capri day and one more day trip. Four to five nights lets you add Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast without a rush, and gives you a spare day for weather. If you have only two nights, choose one island or coast day and spend the rest in Sorrento.

Where the headline sights fit

Give Capri a full day. Cross early, take the chairlift up Monte Solaro in Anacapri if it is running and the sky is clear, visit Villa San Michele in the late morning, then take the bus back to Capri town for the Gardens of Augustus before the afternoon boat. A boat circuit of the island is a good alternative if the sea is calm, and the Blue Grotto is a bonus if it happens to be open. The Amalfi Coast trip takes a whole day as well, leaving in the morning and returning at dusk, so do not pair it with anything else. Pompeii is a half day on its own and works well on a day when the forecast is poor for the sea.

Rainy and rough-sea days

Keep the cooking class, the lemon grove tasting and the old town for the days when the sea or the road is unreliable. The lemon grove visit takes under an hour, so it slots into a gap, and the cooking class fills an afternoon. Sorrento itself is open all winter, and its Villa Comunale terrace and lanes are rewarding even in grey light.

A simple three-day plan

Day one, arrive and walk the old town and Marina Grande, with a limoncello tasting before dinner. Day two, Capri, with Anacapri, the villa and the gardens, checking the boats the night before. Day three, Pompeii in the morning by train and a cooking class in the evening. Add the Amalfi Coast on day four if you have it. Swap days freely depending on the forecast.

Practical tips

Pack layers and a waterproof jacket, because wind on the water and at the summit is cold. Wear shoes with grip, since stone paving is slippery in rain. Carry some cash for small purchases and entrance fees on Capri. Check opening times on the day, as winter hours change and many places close on Tuesdays. The Italian lunch hour can be long, and some restaurants close between lunch and dinner, so plan meals around it. Finally, accept that the sea decides: the best low-season trips are the ones with a spare day built in.

Mentioned in this guide

Do

Sorrento Old Town and Marina Grande

Sorrento's centre is a compact grid of lanes around Piazza Tasso, with lemon-scented shops, a cloister and gardens, and a short downhill walk to the fishing village of Marina Grande. It is free, open all year and best at golden hour.

Anacapri and the Monte Solaro ChairliftDo

Anacapri and the Monte Solaro Chairlift

Anacapri is the quieter, whitewashed half of the island, and the single-seat chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro is the best view on Capri. In winter the lift runs on shorter hours and stops in high wind or lightning, so go early and check the day.

Villa San MicheleDo

Villa San Michele

Axel Munthe's hillside villa in Anacapri is a house of loggias, antiquities and a pergola walk to a terrace over the sea. In November it opens only until mid-afternoon and is closed on Tuesdays, so time your visit.

Do

Amalfi Coast Day Trip: Positano, Amalfi and Ravello

A guided day trip from Sorrento along the Amalfi Drive to Positano, Amalfi and Ravello. In November the boat leg is replaced by a bus, the crowds are thin and some beach clubs are closed, but the coast is just as dramatic.

Do

Pompeii Day Trip from Sorrento

The Roman city frozen by Vesuvius in AD 79 is about half an hour from Sorrento by train. It is open daily in winter, with fewer visitors and cooler walking weather, and a guide makes the huge site far easier to read.

Stay

Hotel Regina Sorrento

A four-star hotel on Via Marina Grande, close to the Sorrento lift and the harbour, with sea-view rooms, a garden and a rooftop breakfast room. Breakfast is extra, and the pool is seasonal.

Stay

Hotel Nice Sorrento

A three-star hotel on Corso Italia, a minute or two from Sorrento station, with soundproofed rooms and a terrace. It is the practical budget base for trains to Pompeii and Naples, and stairs only.

Stay

Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria

A grand cliff-top hotel on Piazza Tasso with gardens, a spa and a private lift to the port. It is the traditional splurge in Sorrento, and it closes for a winter break.