Eating in Tromsø means eating the Arctic. The city has been a fishing and trading port for centuries, the Barents Sea sits on its doorstep and the Sámi herding tradition supplies the reindeer, so the local menu is shorter and more distinctive than you might expect. It is also an expensive part of an expensive country, which makes it worth knowing what to order and where the good value hides. This guide covers the dishes to look for, the kinds of places to find them and how to fold meals into a trip that revolves around tours.
Cod, stockfish and skrei
Cod is the foundation of northern Norwegian cooking. Stockfish is cod air-dried in the open without salt, and it has been exported from northern Norway for hundreds of years. Skrei is the migratory Barents Sea cod that arrives in the winter and spring, prized for its firm white flesh. If you see skrei on a menu in season, order it. Full Steam, near the harbour, is a good place to learn the story, because it ties the food to the fishing history of the town and offers tasting experiences, though it is worth checking opening times before you go.
Fish soup and king crab
Fiskesuppe, a creamy soup of fish and vegetables, is the one-bowl meal that suits a cold day, and recipes differ from kitchen to kitchen. King crab is the other signature. It is an introduced species in the Barents Sea that is now harvested and served across the north, and you will see it on harbour menus. Fiskekompaniet is a quayside seafood restaurant that builds its menu around the catch of the day, and Skirri, on the harbour, focuses on northern seafood such as cod, salmon and king crab. Expect to pay more at these than at a cafe, and reserve in winter.
Reindeer
Reindeer is lean, rich and dark, and it is often served with potatoes, root vegetables, mushrooms or a creamy sauce. It is closely tied to Sámi culture, and the best way to understand the link is to take the reindeer and Sámi tour, where the half-day includes a lavvu, a sleigh ride and a warm lunch of bidos, a traditional soup. For a restaurant version, Bardus Bistro in the centre is an informal place serving reindeer, fish, lamb and game, and booking ahead is recommended.
Modern northern cooking
Several smaller restaurants take the same ingredients in a modern direction. Hildr Gastro Bar serves small plates of Norwegian fish, shellfish and meat with foraged touches, while Restaurant Smak offers a multi-course menu built on seasonal produce. These are the places for a celebratory dinner, and you should check the current menu and price before you reserve. Mathallen Tromsø is the food hall style option, with seasonal fish, game and local meat and local beer, and it too fills up in the busy winter season.
Sweet things and coffee
Cloudberries are golden-orange, sweet and slightly tart, and they appear with cream, ice cream or waffles. Norwegians take coffee seriously, and the harbour streets have cafes that double as delicatessens, such as Helmersen Delikatesser, where you can buy local cheeses and home-made dishes for a picnic. The local beer is Mack, brewed in the centre of town, and you will find it on tap in many bars.
How to eat well on a budget
Restaurant prices in Norway are high, but there are easy ways to balance them. Make lunch your main meal, since many places serve a cheaper midday menu. Buy sandwiches, cheeses and fruit from a supermarket and take them on day trips. Share a starter such as fish soup. Tap water is safe and excellent, so skip bottled water. Many tours feed you, including the husky trip with cake and hot drinks, the snowshoe hike with a hot lunch and the fjord road trip with a picnic, and a hotel with a free breakfast buffet, such as Thon Hotel Polar, takes the pressure off the first meal of the day.
Eating around the tours
The aurora chase is the awkward one. It leaves in the evening and runs for many hours, and the big bus option provides only light snacks, so eat a proper dinner first and carry a snack. Whale watching is a long day, and while the boat has a cafe, the food is extra, so bring a thermos. Plan one proper restaurant dinner on the night you have no tour.
Practical notes
Most Tromsø restaurants take cards, and tipping is modest, a round-up or a small amount for good service rather than a fixed percentage. Winter is the busy season, so reserve dinner a few days ahead, particularly for the fish restaurants and the tasting menus. Tell the kitchen about allergies and diets when you book, since vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options vary by place.
