FreeMedina of Tunis
A UNESCO-listed maze of vaulted souks, domed mosques and merchant palaces, a few minutes' walk from the modern city. Go with a local guide on a pay-what-you-want walking tour and the lanes make sense.

Tunisia
Tunis is the city where Africa, the Arab world and the Mediterranean meet on one lagoon.
At its heart is a UNESCO-listed medina of vaulted souks and domed palaces; a short light-rail ride along the lake takes you to Carthage, once the rival of Rome, and to Sidi Bou Said, the white-and-blue clifftop village that looks over the Gulf of Tunis. Add the Bardo Museum, home to one of the greatest collections of Roman mosaics anywhere, and you have a capital that rewards a long weekend. This guide books it properly: a guided walk through the medina, a street-food crawl, the mosaics of the Bardo, the Antonine Baths and the ruins of Carthage, mint tea in Sidi Bou Said, and the two big day trips that every visitor eventually wants, Dougga's hilltop Roman town and the great amphitheatre of El Djem. Then it matches you to a bed, from a palace-turned-hotel in the medina to a cliffside guesthouse in Sidi Bou Said and a lakeside business hotel near the airport, because in Tunis where you sleep decides how you move.

Medina of Tunis
A UNESCO-listed maze of vaulted souks, domed mosques and merchant palaces, a few minutes' walk from the modern city. Go with a local guide on a pay-what-you-want walking tour and the lanes make sense.

Bardo National Museum
One of the great Roman mosaic collections in the world, set in a former beylical palace on the edge of Tunis. Floors and walls glow with sea gods, poets and hunting scenes, and a half-day guided visit with the medina is the easy way to see it.

Sidi Bou Said
The white-and-blue clifftop village above the Gulf of Tunis, with cobbled lanes, bougainvillea, blue doors and mint tea at sunset. A small-group day tour pairs it with Carthage, the Bardo and the medina.

Carthage Archaeological Sites
The city of Hannibal and the rival that Rome destroyed, now a seaside suburb scattered with Punic ports, Roman villas, a theatre and the great baths. A guided day tour is the easiest way to join the dots.
FreeA UNESCO-listed maze of vaulted souks, domed mosques and merchant palaces, a few minutes' walk from the modern city. Go with a local guide on a pay-what-you-want walking tour and the lanes make sense.

One of the great Roman mosaic collections in the world, set in a former beylical palace on the edge of Tunis. Floors and walls glow with sea gods, poets and hunting scenes, and a half-day guided visit with the medina is the easy way to see it.

The city of Hannibal and the rival that Rome destroyed, now a seaside suburb scattered with Punic ports, Roman villas, a theatre and the great baths. A guided day tour is the easiest way to join the dots.

The largest Roman thermal baths in Africa, built right on the shore at Carthage. One tall reconstructed column and a maze of vaults show the scale, with the sea glittering beyond.

The white-and-blue clifftop village above the Gulf of Tunis, with cobbled lanes, bougainvillea, blue doors and mint tea at sunset. A small-group day tour pairs it with Carthage, the Bardo and the medina.
A hilltop Roman town in the olive-covered countryside, with a perfect theatre and a soaring Capitol, about two hours from Tunis. A private tour with Testour and Bulla Regia makes the logistics easy.
The great Roman amphitheatre of Thysdrus, built for up to 35,000 spectators and still towering over a small town. It is a long day trip from Tunis, best done on a private tour with Kairouan.
FreeA historic palace in the heart of the medina, turned into a museum of popular arts and traditions. Tiled courtyards and scenes of daily and ceremonial life make a gentle, shady break from the souks.
A guided crawl through the medina's food stalls, from brik and lablabi to sweet makroudh and mint tea. It is the tastiest way to learn the souks and eat like a Tunisian.
Hotels we would book ourselves, from splurges to good-value bases.
$$$$Medina of Tunis
A five-star palace-style hotel inside the walls of the medina, with suite-only rooms, a spa and a rooftop restaurant. The most atmospheric splurge in Tunis, a few steps from the souks.
Rates on Expedia →
$$$Les Berges du Lac
A modern five-star lakeside hotel in the Berges du Lac district, with lake-view rooms, an outdoor pool, a spa and easy access to the airport. A comfortable, reliable base for business and for day trips.
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$$$Sidi Bou Said
A four-star guesthouse hotel in Sidi Bou Said with sea-view rooms, a garden, a pool and a Turkish bath. Five minutes' walk from the TGM station and steps from the cafes and viewpoints.
Rates on Expedia →Gammarth
A big beachfront resort in Gammarth, with a private beach, several pools, six restaurants and a spa. A good fit for families who want a seaside base and are happy to travel to the sights.
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$Avenue Habib Bourguiba
A budget-friendly three-star hotel at 31 Avenue Habib Bourguiba, a one-minute walk from the main boulevard. Eighty rooms, a restaurant, a cafe and the medina a short stroll away.
Rates on Expedia →The practical primer for a first visit: which day trips to book ahead, how the TGM and taxis work, how many days you need and where the medina, the Bardo, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said fit.
A neighbourhood guide to sleeping in Tunis: a palace in the medina, a guesthouse in Sidi Bou Said, a lakeside hotel near the airport, a beach resort in Gammarth and a central budget base.