Xàtiva is a calm inland town about an hour from Valencia that most visitors never reach, which is part of its charm. Its great draw is the castle, a double fortress draped across two rocky hilltops above the rooftops, with long battlements, towers and gardens that give wide views over the plain. The walls have been rebuilt and reused for more than two thousand years, and in later centuries the castle served as a state prison. Below it, the old town is a pleasant grid of stone houses, fountains and churches, and it carries a surprising amount of history. The Borgia family has deep roots here, and two popes of that family were born in the town. The painter Jusepe de Ribera was a local boy too. Xàtiva was also an early centre of paper-making in Europe, introduced during the Moorish period. The tour combines the castle with a museum visit, which is where you find the town's best-known curiosity, a royal portrait that hangs upside down as a reminder of an old grievance. It is a quiet, human-scale day out, and it rewards anyone who likes towns with real stories over staged attractions. Combined with the walk up and down the castle path, it is a pleasantly active half day.
How to take it
Tours leave Valencia in the morning and usually return mid-afternoon, which leaves time for a late lunch. The castle visit is the physical part of the day, with a steady climb on stone ramps, so bring comfortable shoes and water. Some people drive a small vehicle part of the way up, and others walk the whole path, so ask your guide which option is on offer. In summer the castle is hot and exposed, which makes morning departures the better choice.
What to expect
Expect a guided introduction to the town's history, time to explore the castle at your own pace and a visit to the museum in the town centre. The old streets below are worth a slow stroll, with cafés where you can try local specialities. The castle gardens and terraces are good for photographs, and from some of the upper towers you see the whole plain stretching towards the coast.
Making the most of it
Xàtiva is a good choice if you have already seen the main sights of Valencia and want a day somewhere less crowded. It pairs well with a lazy evening back in the city, or with a paella dinner. If you are driving yourself, combine it with a stop at a nearby wine village, though a guided trip means nobody has to stay sober behind the wheel.
Check when you book whether entry fees are included and how much free time you get, since itineraries differ. Visitors with limited mobility should ask about access to the upper castle, as the ramps are long and the surfaces are uneven. The town is also pleasant in the evening if you decide to extend the visit on your own.
Good to know
The town is quiet in the middle of the day, when many shops close for a long lunch, so use the time to eat rather than shop. The castle is large, with gardens, towers and former prison cells, and a guide helps you see which parts are medieval and which were rebuilt. Bring a camera, since the views across the plain and the red roofs below are some of the best inland scenes within reach of Valencia.
What to expect
The experience
A guided day trip with castle time, a museum visit and a wander through the old town.
Best time
Spring or autumn, or a summer morning before the heat.
How long
About five to six hours including travel.
Tips
Wear sturdy shoes, carry water and ask which parts of the castle path you will walk.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travellers who like quieter towns and big castles.
- Families
- Older children enjoy the battlements; hold hands near the edges.
- Couples
- A low-key day with long views and a good lunch.
- Pair with
- A paella dinner back in the city.
- Time needed
- Allow most of a day.
Good questions
How far is Xàtiva from Valencia?+
About sixty kilometres to the south-west, roughly an hour by road or by regional train.
Why is a portrait hung upside down?+
The story goes that the town was burned in the early eighteenth century by a king whose portrait now hangs inverted in the local museum as a reminder. Your guide can explain the details.
Is the castle hard to climb?+
The ramps are long and steady rather than steep, but the surfaces are uneven, so wear good shoes.
Is it worth it if I only have a few days?+
It is best for travellers with four days or more who have already seen the city highlights.
Is food included?+
Check when you book. Many travellers eat lunch in the old town after the castle.
