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First-Timer's Guide to Whitehorse

Whitehorse guide

First-Timer's Guide to Whitehorse

Plan your first trip to Whitehorse: which tours to book ahead, how to get around, how many days you need and which sights are closed or on winter hours in the cold months.

Whitehorse is a small, friendly capital with a big wilderness at its door. Roughly 28,000 people live here, the Yukon River runs through the middle, and the main sights sit within a few minutes of each other downtown, with the best experiences a short drive out. Many Yukon attractions are summer-only, so the first rule is to plan by season. This guide leans on the cold months, when the aurora season is on, snow is arriving and a number of summer sights are closed.

Check what is open before you plan

The S.S. Klondike sternwheeler is closed to visitors while Parks Canada carries out a long-term rehabilitation, though the grounds remain open. The Waterfront Trolley and the Copperbelt Mining Museum are summer operations. The Carcross visitor centre runs from May to September, and many Carcross shops close for the winter. On the other hand, the MacBride Museum is open all year, with winter hours from Tuesday to Saturday, the Beringia Centre opens on Saturday, Sunday and Monday afternoons, and the Yukon Wildlife Preserve is open daily with bus tours at noon and 3 pm until the end of March, except on 25 December and on days colder than minus 35 degrees Celsius.

What to book ahead

Book your northern lights tour first, and ideally book more than one night, because cloud and solar activity decide the show. The late-night aurora tour from Arctic Day is the best-reviewed single outing. Next, book the Yukon Wildlife Preserve bus tour or a half-day tour that pairs it with the Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs, which is open daily to adults aged 19 and over. If you want to try dog sledding, ask Sky High Wilderness Ranch about the season start, because the trails depend on snow. Day trips to Carcross and Emerald Lake or to Kluane National Park run from downtown hotel pickups and are worth reserving a few days ahead.

How to get around

Downtown Whitehorse is compact and walkable, but winter pavements are icy and the cold makes long walks tiring. Most tour operators collect guests from downtown hotel lobbies, which means you can see a great deal without a car. Several hotels, including the Sternwheeler, the Best Western Gold Rush Inn and Hyatt Place, run free airport shuttles, and the airport is only a short drive from town. A rental car is useful if you want to reach Miles Canyon, the Wildlife Preserve or the hot springs independently, but winter driving requires confidence and proper tyres. Taxis cover the gaps.

How many days

Three days is the sweet spot for a winter visit. Spend day one downtown with the MacBride Museum, the S.S. Klondike grounds and the riverfront, then set out on your first aurora tour that night. Use day two for the Yukon Wildlife Preserve and the hot springs, or a dog sledding afternoon if the season has begun. Day three can be a Carcross or Kluane day trip, or a second aurora attempt with a lazy morning. A fourth day lets you add the Beringia Centre on a weekend or Monday and a walk to Miles Canyon on a clear morning. If you only have one night, put the aurora first and fit the museum around it.

What to pack

Plan for serious cold from late autumn. That means insulated boots, a parka, layers, warm gloves with liners, a hat and a scarf, and a spare battery for your phone. Many tours provide drinks and some provide gear, but check what is supplied. Late-night tours finish in the small hours, so allow yourself a sleep-in and avoid scheduling an early start the next day.

Where to stay

For a walkable base, choose one of the downtown hotels on Main Street or Wood Street: Hyatt Place for modern comfort, the Edgewater for boutique character, the Sternwheeler for space and services or the Best Western Gold Rush Inn for value. The Quality Inn and Suites on Second Avenue is the budget pick near the airport. Our where-to-stay guide compares them in more detail.

Money and timing

Prices are in Canadian dollars and cards are widely accepted. Plan on a few free sights, the Millennium Trail, Miles Canyon and the riverfront, to balance the cost of the big tours, and try to schedule paid outings on different days so one late night does not undermine the next morning.

A final tip

Build slack into your plan. The aurora, the weather and the roads all vary, and the best Whitehorse trips leave room for a clear night to appear. Be flexible, dress warmly and let the evenings be the highlight.

Mentioned in this guide

Northern Lights Viewing from WhitehorseDo

Northern Lights Viewing from Whitehorse

Whitehorse sits under the auroral oval, and from late summer into spring a guided night out is the reason many visitors come. Tours collect you from a downtown hotel, drive out of the city glow and stay out for hours with warm drinks, a fire and a guide who photographs the sky for you.

Yukon Wildlife PreserveDo

Yukon Wildlife Preserve

A large, naturalistic reserve a short drive from town where northern animals such as muskox, bison, lynx, caribou and moose live in big habitats. It is open daily all winter with bus tours at midday and mid-afternoon, and it is one of the best cold-weather family outings in the Yukon.

Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs (Takhini)Do

Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs (Takhini)

A Nordic-style spa built on the site of the historic Takhini Hot Springs, about 25 minutes from downtown. Open daily for adults only, with outdoor pools designed for sub-zero air, saunas and steam rooms, it is the best way to warm up after a winter day.

MacBride Museum of Yukon HistoryDo

MacBride Museum of Yukon History

Whitehorse's main museum covers the Klondike Gold Rush, First Nations history, the North-West Mounted Police and Yukon wildlife. It is open all year and, in winter, Tuesday to Saturday, which makes it the best rainy- or freezing-day anchor downtown.

Miles CanyonDo

Miles Canyon

A basalt gorge on the Yukon River just outside Whitehorse, crossed by an 85-foot suspension bridge and laced with trails. It is free, open in every season, and the easiest way to feel the Gold Rush landscape. In winter the north-side access road is the one to use.

Stay

Hyatt Place Whitehorse

A modern big-brand hotel on Main Street, with contemporary rooms, local Indigenous art, on-site dining and a complimentary airport shuttle. The top pick for travellers who want contemporary comfort in the middle of downtown and an easy base for aurora and winter tours.

Stay

Sternwheeler Hotel and Conference Centre

A large downtown hotel one block from the Yukon River, long known as the Westmark, with 181 rooms, studio suites with kitchenettes, a free airport shuttle and an on-site restaurant. Several winter tours collect guests from its lobby, which makes it a handy base.

Edgewater HotelStay

Edgewater Hotel

A 33-room boutique hotel at the corner of Main Street and the Yukon River, with roots going back to the Klondike Gold Rush and consistently superb guest scores. Walk to the museum, the riverfront and the visitor centre in minutes.