Most visitors to Auckland look south, towards Hobbiton, Waitomo and Rotorua, and overlook the coast that runs north of the city. That is a pity, because the Rodney coast and Northland offer a slower, greener and more coastal kind of day out, with farmers’ markets, wineries, wild beaches, a marine reserve and one of the loveliest bays in the country. Here is how to plan a trip north, from an easy half-day to a long day on the road.
Why go north
The northern roads are quieter than the road south, the villages are small, and the landscape moves quickly from the city’s edge to farmland, estuaries and bush. It is also closer than many people think. Matakana is about an hour from the centre, Goat Island is a little further, and even the Bay of Islands, though a long day, is within reach for travellers who want to see the far north without hiring a car.
Matakana: the easy one
Matakana is the village that Aucklanders choose for a good lunch, and it works very well as a day trip. The main street has galleries, cafes, a cinema and a river, and the farmers’ market, which runs on set days of the week, fills the riverside with produce, coffee and street food. The Matakana market, beaches and winery day trip combines the village with a wine tasting and a stop on the coast, so you can see the area without driving. If you have a car, wander further to the sculpture gardens and wineries in the hills around the village, and keep an eye on the weekly market timetable so that you do not miss it.
Goat Island: the one for the water
A little further up the coast, near the village of Leigh, is Goat Island and the Cape Rodney to Okakari Point Marine Reserve, the first marine reserve in New Zealand. Fish here have been protected for decades, which is why a guided snorkel can feel like swimming in an aquarium. The beginner format includes a wetsuit, mask and fins, and a guide stays with you in the water, so you do not need to have snorkelled before, only to be a reasonably confident swimmer. Summer has the warmest water and the best visibility, and calm mornings are best of all. If you prefer to stay dry, glass-bottom boat trips run in the same waters.
The Bay of Islands: the long one
About three hours north of the city, the Bay of Islands is a sheltered stretch of water dotted with islands and fringed with small towns, and it is also the place where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840. A small-group day trip gets you there and back in one very long day, with a few hours in and around Paihia. It gives a taste, but the bay deserves more time, so if you can spare a night or two, stay, and use the day trip as a sampler only if you cannot. Check whether a boat cruise is part of the day or an optional extra, because the water is the reason most people go.
How to combine them
Matakana and Goat Island fit together naturally, since they lie on the same stretch of coast. Snorkel in the morning, when the water is calmest, then drive back via Leigh and Matakana for a late lunch and a stroll along the river. The Bay of Islands needs a day of its own, and is better kept separate from everything else. If you only have time for one northern excursion, choose Matakana for food and wine, Goat Island for wildlife and the Bay of Islands for history and scenery.
Getting there
The state highway north is a motorway for much of the first stretch and then a two-lane road, which can be slow on Friday evenings and at the start and end of school holidays. If you are driving yourself, start early, allow time for coffee stops and watch the fuel gauge in the quieter areas. If you are not, a guided tour or a small-group trip removes the stress, and gives you the chance to enjoy a glass of wine at the winery.
When to go
Summer, from December to February, is the busiest and warmest season, and the best for swimming and snorkelling. Autumn is often calm, with clear light and fewer people, and spring brings fresh growth and changeable weather. Winter is quiet and can be showery, which makes the market and the wineries a better bet than the beach. Whatever the season, bring layers, a waterproof jacket and sunscreen.
What to pair them with
On the days either side of a northern trip, balance the long road with something local: a ferry to Waiheke for more vineyards, the Tiritiri Matangi sanctuary for birdlife, or a gentle walk up Maungawhau for the city view. If your time is very short, our guide to day trips from Auckland compares all the options, from the islands in the Hauraki Gulf to the great North Island set pieces further south.
A simple plan
For a three-night stay, spend day one in the city centre, day two on the northern coast with Goat Island in the morning and Matakana for lunch, and day three on the volcanoes and the museum. For a longer stay, add the Bay of Islands as a separate overnight trip, and you will see far more of the north than most visitors ever do.
