Rocher des Doms Gardens

The Rocher des Doms is the rock on which Avignon began. Long before the popes, this limestone outcrop above the Rhône was a settlement, and today it is a public park of about ten hectares that runs along the edge of the old town, right beside the Palais des Papes and the cathedral of Notre-Dame des Doms. The garden was laid out in the nineteenth century in the romantic style, with winding paths, shaded lawns, a small pond and a belvedere that looks out over the river. The view is the reason to come: the Rhône loops below, the Pont Saint-Bénézet stretches out into the current, the fort of Villeneuve-lès-Avignon stands on the opposite bank, and on a clear day the long white ridge of Mont Ventoux rises on the horizon. There is a modernised playground with a giant dragon sculpture for children, an orientation board naming the landmarks, benches, water points, public toilets and a picnic area. Entry is free. It is the best place in Avignon to catch your breath between sights.

The gardens sit on the high ground at the northern end of the old town, so they are the natural start or end of a day among the monuments. The cathedral beside them, topped by a golden statue of the Virgin, is worth a short look for its Romanesque porch and the Gothic tomb of Pope John XXII, and the palace is a couple of minutes' walk along the rock. From the belvedere you can trace the Rhône and its island, the Île de la Barthelasse, a mix of orchards and meadows, and understand why this site was chosen for a fortress.

Plan your visit around the light and the season. Morning is calm and the air is clear, with the river lit from the east. Late afternoon and sunset bring the best colour, and a picnic of bread, cheese and a bottle from a local market makes an easy and inexpensive dinner.

In summer the park gives welcome shade when the old streets are hot, and in autumn the leaves turn gold. Opening hours change by season, with the gates closing earlier in the winter months, so check before you go. Some areas of the rock can be closed off for maintenance, so follow the signs.

The park is easy to reach. The main entrance is on the Place du Palais, and there are steps and ramps from the riverside near the Pont Saint-Bénézet. It is well suited to families because the paths are gentle and the playground is modern, but the edges of the belvedere are high, so supervise young children. Animals are not allowed in the gardens. Combine the park with the palace, the bridge and a walk along the ramparts for a complete Avignon morning that costs nothing but your tickets.