Nothing prepares you for the scale of the Palais des Papes. It rises from the top of the old town like a cliff of pale stone, more fortress than palace, and it was both: in 1309 the papacy left Rome, and for most of the following century the popes governed the Catholic Church from Avignon. Two of them built this monument. Benedict XII raised the austere, tower-studded Old Palace, and his successor Clement VI added the larger and more lavish New Palace, with its Great Chapel and ceremonial halls. Together they form a complex that UNESCO describes as a Gothic fortress with lavish interior decoration, and the medieval chronicler Froissart called it the most well-fortified house in the world. Inside, the bare stone halls are enormous, but the details reward you: the frescoes of the Chambre du Cerf, a private study painted with hunting and fishing scenes, and the saints and prophets painted in the chapels by the Italian artist Matteo Giovannetti. The visit follows a set route through the Consistory, the Great Tinel banquet hall, the papal apartments and the Great Chapel, and an audio guide is included with the standard ticket. Climbing to the terraces gives a view over the town and the river. Combined tickets also cover the Pont d'Avignon, so most visitors buy one pass for both.
The history explains the building. Rome had become dangerous and divided, and the French pope Clement V chose to settle in Avignon, then a modest town on land held by the Pope himself. Seven popes in a row, all French, lived here until 1377, and the palace grew with the court: it needed to be a home, a government office, a treasury and a refuge from enemies.
That is why it has walls several metres thick and why its towers are so tall. When the papacy returned to Rome, a rival line of popes kept the palace for a time, and later it served for centuries as a barracks and prison before restoration brought it back to life. Today it hosts exhibitions and, every July, the open-air theatre of the Avignon Festival in the Cour d'honneur.
How to visit well
Buy a timed ticket ahead, especially from spring to autumn and in festival July, when queues at the door can be long. Arrive at opening time or in the last hours of the day, and give the palace a full two hours with the audio guide. The rooms are spacious but plain, so the guide makes the difference between a walk through empty halls and a story about court life, banquets and papal politics.
Wear comfortable shoes for stone floors and stairs, and note that the route is busy but not cramped. The palace stands on a windy hilltop, and the large halls stay cool in summer and cold in winter, so carry a layer outside high season.
Pair it with the gardens above and the bridge below. The Rocher des Doms park is a minute away and gives the best view of the river, and the Pont Saint-Bénézet is a short walk downhill, which is why the combined palace and bridge ticket is such a popular choice. Afterward, the Place du Palais has a cathedral, a small museum and several cafes. Autumn and winter are quiet and pleasant, though hours are shorter, so check the day's opening times before you set out.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided route with an audio guide through the Old Palace and New Palace, including the frescoed Stag Room, the Great Chapel, the banquet hall and the terraces.
Best time
At opening time or in the last two hours of the day, and on weekdays outside July when crowds are thinnest.
How long
About two hours with the audio guide; add time for the terraces and any temporary exhibition.
Tips
Book a timed ticket ahead, choose the combined palace and bridge ticket if you plan both, carry a warm layer for the big halls, and check the day's opening hours.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Every first-timer: it is the reason Avignon is on the map and the best single use of two hours here.
- Families
- Children enjoy the towers, the huge halls and the stories of fortress life; the audio guide keeps younger visitors engaged better than reading panels.
- Couples
- Go late in the day, then walk up to the Rocher des Doms for the evening view over the Rhône.
- Pair with
- The Pont Saint-Bénézet, the Rocher des Doms gardens and a loop of the ramparts.
- Time needed
- Two hours inside, plus time to enjoy the square outside.
Good questions
Is the Palais des Papes worth visiting?+
Yes, it is the single most important sight in Avignon and the largest Gothic palace in the world. The audio guide brings its bare halls and frescoed chambers to life.
Do I need to book tickets in advance?+
Booking ahead is wise from spring to autumn and essential in July during the festival. A timed ticket saves you from standing in the queue at the door.
Is there a combined ticket with the Pont d'Avignon?+
Yes, a combined palace and bridge ticket exists and includes an audio guide. It suits most visitors, since the two sights are a short walk apart.
How long does the visit take?+
Plan on about two hours with the audio guide. Allow extra time if you want to climb to the terraces or see a temporary exhibition.
Is the palace open in winter?+
Yes, it stays open through the year, with shorter hours in the colder months. Check the opening times for your date before you go.
