The north coast of Rapa Nui is wilder than the east and far less visited. Heading out from Hanga Roa along the northern road, you leave the town behind and cross open pasture, past volcanic hills and cattle ranches, to reach a series of coastal sites that most day trips skip or hurry through. The highlight is Ahu Te Pito Kura, where a huge toppled moai lies face down in front of its platform. It is the largest figure ever moved from the quarry to a platform, and the effort that went into transporting it astonishes archaeologists. Beside it sits a smooth, rounded stone known as the navel of the world, which tradition says Hotu Matu'a brought with him from his homeland. Further along the coast, the cove of Ovahe offers a small beach of pale pinkish sand beneath high cliffs, one of the loveliest swimming spots when the sea is calm.
The size of the fallen statue at Te Pito Kura is hard to appreciate without standing next to it. At roughly ten metres it dwarfs the moai at Tongariki, and its position, flat on the ground in front of a ruined platform, suggests that it was toppled shortly after it was raised.
Some guides mention that the stone is said to carry unusual magnetic effects, but treat that as a story rather than a verified fact. The platform sits on a quiet stretch of coast with the surf below, and on most days you will have it largely to yourself.
Ovahe is a delightful contrast. A short path leads down to a narrow cove beneath tall cliffs, with fine sand, clear water and a surprising amount of shelter. It is often the most peaceful beach on the island, though the water can be rough in winter and the beach is small, so it fills quickly on sunny weekends. Check conditions before you swim, and note that cliff falls are a real hazard, so do not linger too close to the walls. The shaded rocks make a good picnic spot.
Many tours combine the north coast with the beach at Anakena, which is only a short distance further. The tour linked here covers the north coast of Rapa Nui with a guide and transport. The roads are rough in places, so a guided vehicle is the easiest way to travel. Bring water, a swimsuit and a picnic, because food options are limited, and bring a layer for wind. If you plan to walk between sites, make sure you have a guide who knows the tracks, since the area is open and the paths are faint.
A few practical details help. Fill your water bottle in town, because there are no shops along the north coast, and wear sturdy shoes for the rough tracks. Bring a swimsuit and towel for Ovahe, and a small bag for your things since the cove has no facilities. Ask your guide to explain the rules around the navel stone, which visitors should not touch, and keep your distance from the fallen statue.
In the afternoon the light on the cliffs turns warm, and the surf makes dramatic photographs. If you can, finish with a late swim at Anakena to wash off the dust.
What to expect
The experience
A guided drive along the northern shore with stops at the Te Pito Kura platform and the fallen giant, the navel stone, and the small cove at Ovahe.
Best time
Morning or late afternoon. Ovahe is calmest in summer and on days with little swell.
How long
Half a day for the coast, or a full day with Anakena.
Tips
Bring a swimsuit, water and a picnic. Keep clear of the cliff walls at Ovahe.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travellers who have done the headline sites and want something wilder.
- Families
- Fine for children who tolerate a long drive; the beach is the highlight.
- Couples
- A secluded cove and an empty coastline.
- Pair with
- Anakena beach, only a short drive further along the coast.
- Time needed
- A half day, or a full day with Anakena.
Good questions
What is special about Te Pito Kura?+
It has the largest moai ever moved from the quarry to a platform, now lying toppled, and a round stone called the navel of the world.
Can I swim at Ovahe?+
In calm conditions, yes, but the cove is small, the sea can be rough, and cliff falls are a hazard, so check locally.
Is the north coast crowded?+
Rarely. It is much quieter than the east coast, particularly outside peak summer.
Are there places to eat?+
Very few, so bring a picnic and water, or combine the visit with lunch at Anakena.
How long does it take?+
A half day for the sites alone, or a full day if you add Anakena and a swim.
