Basílica de Zapopan

The Basílica de Zapopan is one of the most important religious sites in Jalisco. The tourism board says the church was built in 1730 and houses the statue of Nuestra Señora de Zapopan, a small, much-loved figure of the Virgin that is carried through the region on pilgrimage. The basilica sits on a broad plaza in the old centre of Zapopan, the municipality that adjoins Guadalajara to the northwest and now forms part of the same urban area. The facade is a restrained baroque in pale stone, with a tower and a generous atrium where families gather, vendors sell candles and sweets and elderly residents sit in the shade. Inside, the nave is lofty and ornate, and the focus is the altar where the Virgin is displayed. For visitors who want to understand how deeply faith runs through Jalisco life, this is among the most revealing places to spend an hour, and it contrasts nicely with the formal grandeur of the cathedral downtown.

The pilgrimage. Each year in October the statue travels from the cathedral in Guadalajara to the basilica in the Romería, a procession that draws enormous crowds of devotees, dancers and musicians and ranks among the biggest religious gatherings in Mexico. If your trip falls in that period, expect crowds, closed streets and a festive atmosphere, and plan transport accordingly.

At other times of year the basilica is calm, with a steady stream of worshippers and a few tourists. The statue is a modest figure, which surprises some visitors, but its place in local life is hard to overstate, and the tradition says a great deal about the character of the region.

Practical notes. The tourism board gives daily hours of nine in the morning to eight in the evening, though services take place throughout the day and tourists should avoid disturbing worshippers. Entry is free. Dress modestly, keep photography discreet during Mass, and remember that Sundays and feast days are the busiest.

Zapopan is a taxi or ride-service trip from the centre of Guadalajara, and the plaza has cafés, small restaurants and shops selling devotional items and local sweets. Allow thirty to sixty minutes for the basilica and the plaza, and longer if you want a meal nearby.

Who it suits. Visitors interested in religious heritage and local culture, travellers who have already seen the cathedral and want to go beyond the historic centre, and anyone looking for a pleasant, low-key outing that does not require a ticket. It also works as a stop on the way to or from the Bosque Los Colomos, which lies in the same direction, or as part of an afternoon in Zapopan with a long lunch.

Families will find the plaza spacious and easy for children. If you are staying in a hotel on the west side of the city, the basilica is a short ride away and makes an easy half-day outing.

Around the plaza. After the basilica, take time to walk the old centre of Zapopan, where narrow streets, small shops and family restaurants give a flavour of a town that has been swallowed by a metropolis but kept its identity. Look for traditional sweets, religious souvenirs and handmade crafts. A late lunch under the arcades is a pleasant way to end the visit, and the surrounding area is calm compared with the busy centre of Guadalajara.