A few minutes south of the Vieux-Port, the coast road drops over a ravine and under a graceful stone bridge into a miniature port that feels like a village hidden inside the city. This is the Vallon des Auffes, a small fishing harbour between the Catalans and Prophète beaches, named after the auffe, a plant once used to make ship ropes and nets. Fishermen’s houses with bright façades line the water, traditional Provençal pointus boats bob at their moorings, and the three-arched bridge that carries the Corniche overhead, 60 metres long and 17 metres high, was built in the 19th century by the engineer Jean François Mayor de Montricher. At the entrance a five-metre sculpture of Victory commemorates the Army of the Orient and has been a protected monument since 2009. The harbour is known for fish and seafood: Chez Jeannot, a family pizzeria since 1949, Chez Fonfon, known for bouillabaisse, the Michelin-starred Auffo, and L’Avant-Cour, which serves sea urchin tastings in season, are all here, and booking ahead is advised, especially in summer. There is no beach, but locals swim from the rocks beneath the bridge at a spot they call la piscine. The harbour is also the doorway to the wider Corniche Kennedy, the coast road that runs about three kilometres from the Palais du Pharo to the Prado beaches.
Getting there
Bus 83 takes about 15 minutes from the Vieux-Port, and about 25 minutes from the Prado beaches, and runs along the Corniche with sea views. You can also walk the coast road from the Vieux-Port, roughly 20 minutes to the start of the promenade and a pleasant stroll onward, or arrive by taxi or car.
The Corniche itself, which opened in 1863 as a narrow coastal path and was widened into a panoramic boulevard between 1954 and 1968, offers views over the harbour mouth, the Frioul islands and the Château d’If. Walking its full length takes about 45 minutes to an hour without stops, or up to two hours with them.
What to expect
The harbour is small, so a visit takes an hour or so unless you are eating. Along the Corniche you will pass the beaches of Prophète and Catalans, the latter popular for beach volleyball, with the Marseille Underwater Museum a short way offshore, and then the Prado beaches with their playgrounds and water-sports access.
A 2-kilometre cycle path links Catalans and the Prado, and on one Sunday a month motor traffic is usually suspended on part of the road for walkers and cyclists, though not normally in July and August. Swimming under the bridge is unsupervised and popular, so go early and take care.
Making the most of it
Sunset is the prize, either from the bridge or from the rocks, and the harbour is considered one of the best places in the city to watch it. Book a table in advance if you want to dine, or simply wander the quay and have a drink. Combine it with Notre-Dame de la Garde, which lies a short way inland, and walk down through the quiet streets to the water rather than retracing your steps.
What to expect
The experience
A free stroll through a tiny fishing harbour under a three-arched bridge, with the option of walking on along the Corniche Kennedy or sitting down to a seafood meal.
Best time
Late afternoon through sunset; go early in the morning if you want to swim under the bridge.
How long
An hour at the harbour, or up to two hours if you add part of the Corniche walk.
Tips
Book restaurants ahead in summer, and treat the swimming spot as unsupervised.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Anyone who wants a postcard corner of Marseille, a sea view and a seafood lunch or sunset drink.
- Families
- Children like the boats and the Corniche walk; the swimming spot is better for confident swimmers.
- Couples
- Sunset from the bridge, followed by dinner on the quay, is the classic Marseille evening.
- Pair with
- Notre-Dame de la Garde, the Pharo gardens and a seafront walk to the Catalans beach.
- Time needed
- Around two hours with a drink or a walk.
Good questions
How do I get to the Vallon des Auffes?+
Bus 83 takes about 15 minutes from the Vieux-Port and about 25 minutes from the Prado beaches. You can also walk along the Corniche or come by car.
Can you swim at the Vallon des Auffes?+
There is no beach, but people swim from the rocks under the bridge arches at a spot locals call la piscine. It is unsupervised and busy, so go early.
What can you eat there?+
The harbour is known for fish and seafood. Chez Jeannot is a pizzeria dating to 1949, Chez Fonfon is known for bouillabaisse, and there is a Michelin-starred table. Booking is advised.
How long is the Corniche Kennedy?+
About three kilometres, from the Palais du Pharo to the Prado beaches. It takes 45 minutes to an hour to walk without stopping.
Is it good for sunset?+
Yes, the bridge and the rocks are considered among the best places in Marseille to watch the sunset.
