Kinugawa Onsen is the natural second stop for a Nikko trip, a long-established hot-spring resort town strung along the Kinugawa River gorge south of the shrines. Big riverside hotels offer soaking in open-air baths, and the town itself has a free foot bath near the station, shops and a lively evening scene. Outdoor activities include a motorless boat tour of about forty minutes through rapids and rock formations, rafting for groups, and in warmer months canyoning, which usually ends in mid-November. A 140-metre suspension bridge, about 40 metres above the river, gives a thrilling view, and the neighbouring Kawaji Onsen is quieter and more rustic. Two of the area's biggest theme parks sit close by: Edo Wonderland and Tobu World Square. The onsen season is of course winter, when steaming outdoor baths are at their best, and November's crisp evenings are a good time to arrive. Tobu trains run from Asakusa in Tokyo in roughly two hours.
Kinugawa's reputation is a mixed one. Its postwar boom made it a destination for large group trips, and some of the older towers show their age, but several hotels have been renovated and the setting, in a green river gorge, is lovely. The strongest choice is a ryokan or onsen hotel that includes dinner and breakfast, because the dinner is part of the experience, and then an afternoon walking the river and the bridges.
The river boats and rafting give the outdoor-minded something to do, and rafting is generally a warm-weather activity, so check what runs in winter.
Getting around is simple. Kinugawa Onsen station is the hub for trains and buses, and Tobu World Square has its own station one stop away. Edo Wonderland is a short bus or taxi ride from Kinugawa Onsen station, and a free winter shuttle runs from December between the park, JR Nikko and Toshogu on a reduced schedule. Because the area is on the Tobu line, many visitors combine a night here with a day at the shrines, taking a bus between the towns.
For a trip planner, Kinugawa answers a question the shrines cannot: where to relax after a day of walking. A single night with a hot-spring bath and a big dinner makes Nikko feel like a short break rather than a rushed day trip. If you only have one day, stay in Nikko town and visit the shrines. If you have two, spend the second night here, visit one of the theme parks and take the train back to Tokyo in the evening.
What to expect
The experience
A resort town of onsen hotels and riverside walks, with boat trips, a suspension bridge and a free foot bath.
Best time
Evenings and winter for soaking; autumn and spring for river walks.
How long
A half-day visit, but an overnight stay is the best use of it.
Tips
Choose a hotel with dinner included, check which river activities run in winter, and look at the bus timetable before you set out.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travellers who want a hot-spring night after the shrines.
- Families
- Many hotels welcome families, and the theme parks and river boat add variety for children.
- Couples
- An open-air bath and a multi-course dinner is the classic couple's night away.
- Pair with
- Edo Wonderland, Tobu World Square and Toshogu Shrine.
- Time needed
- One night is ideal.
Good questions
How far is Kinugawa Onsen from Tokyo?+
Tobu trains from Asakusa take about two hours, depending on the service. Some direct limited-express trains run from Tokyo.
Is it open in winter?+
Yes, winter is the onsen high season. Some river activities such as canyoning end in mid-November, so check what is running.
What is there to do besides onsen?+
You can ride a river boat, cross the suspension bridge, soak your feet in the free foot bath and visit Edo Wonderland or Tobu World Square nearby.
Is it better to stay here or in Nikko town?+
Stay in Nikko town for a shrines-focused trip and here for a relaxing hot-spring night. Many visitors do one of each.
How do I get between Kinugawa and the shrines?+
Take the Tobu train back toward Shimo-Imaichi and change for Nikko, or use buses. Allow about an hour for the transfer.
