Lake Yunoko and Yumoto Onsen

At the top of the Okunikko highland, past Senjogahara and the great waterfalls, the road ends at Lake Yunoko and the hot-spring village of Yumoto Onsen on its northern shore. The lake is small, about three kilometres around, and was formed when an eruption of nearby Mount Mitsudake dammed a river. It is surrounded by primeval-looking forest, and it is part of the Okunikko wetlands, which are registered under the Ramsar Convention for their importance to wildlife. A walking trail circles the lake in about an hour, with birdwatching and, in the right seasons, wildflowers and strong autumn colour. On the shore sits Yumoto, a village built around hot springs that, according to local tradition, were discovered by the monk Shodo more than twelve hundred years ago. The water is milky white and sulphurous, and it supplies baths in the inns and hotels that line the village.

Why make the effort? Because this corner of Nikko offers something the shrines cannot: stillness. The lake is cold, deep and calm, and the surrounding trees and hills reflect in it. The walking path is gentle and mostly level, making it a pleasant stretch of the legs for almost anyone, and early morning and evening are particularly peaceful.

Yumoto itself has a small-village atmosphere. There is a visitor centre that is a good first stop for information about hiking trails, plants and wildlife, and there are places to eat and shop, and a foot bath that is open in the warmer months and closed in winter. The village works toward carbon neutrality, which you may notice in signs and local initiatives.

The milky sulphur water is the main attraction for many visitors. The springs are strongly mineral, with a distinctive smell, and the baths are said to be good for the skin and for tired muscles. Many inns offer day-use bathing as well as overnight stays, so you can sample the water without a booking, though it is worth confirming with the inn first.

Getting here is a commitment. The bus from Nikko Station or Tobu-Nikko Station takes about an hour and a half to the village, so it is a long day if done as a round trip, and the timetable is reduced in the colder months. The journey itself is scenic, passing Lake Chuzenji and Senjogahara on the way.

If you have a car, you can combine the lake with Yudaki Falls on the southern shore, and the Senjogahara trail. Because the area is high, it is cooler than the town in every season, with autumn colour peaking in late September to mid October, and snow often arriving early in winter.

Plan with the season in mind. In summer, the lake is a cool retreat. In autumn, it is one of the earliest places in Nikko for colour, so by November it is likely past its best, but the bare trees and crisp air are lovely. In winter, expect snow, ice and quiet, and check bus times and road conditions carefully. Whatever the month, bring warm layers and sturdy shoes.