Ryuzu Falls

Ryuzu Falls is one of Nikko's three great waterfalls, together with the famous drop at Kegon and the Kirifuri Falls near the town. It is a different kind of waterfall: not a single plunge but a long, sliding cascade, stretching for more than two hundred metres down a stepped slope of volcanic rock. About halfway down, a large rock splits the flow into two streams, which then rejoin and run into a pool at the foot of the slope. The name, which means Dragon Head, is said to come from the way the flow looks like a dragon at the bottom. It lies on the Yukawa River, just above the point where the water spreads into Lake Chuzenji, and it is part of the Okunikko highland, along with the lake, the marsh and the many hot-spring inns that lie on the way. There is no entry fee, and an observation deck stands right beside the falls.

The best thing about Ryuzu is how much of it you can take in at once. At Kegon you look at a single dramatic drop, but here the eye follows a long white ribbon across the slope, with trees on each side and, in autumn, a surround of red and gold. The falls reward attention to detail: the way the water fans out over ridges, the sound as it splits around the central rock, and the spray that cools the air at the viewing deck.

In May and June, rhododendrons bloom around the falls, and in September and October the maple and linden trees turn colour, so there are two good seasons, one pink and one fiery.

Getting there takes a little longer than most Nikko sights, but it is easy. A bus from either Nikko station toward Chuzenji Onsen or Yumoto Onsen takes about an hour to the Ryuzu-no-taki stop, followed by a short walk to the observation deck. The roads are the Irohazaka climb and the plateau beyond it, so the journey is itself scenic.

By car, it is a pleasant stop between the lake and the marsh. Because it is higher than the town, it is cooler, and in winter the road can be icy, so check conditions and carry layers.

Most visitors pair Ryuzu with other sights in the upper valley. Lake Chuzenji and Kegon Falls lie a short bus ride below, and Senjogahara marsh and Yudaki Falls are close by in the other direction, so a day in Okunikko can include all of them with a bus pass and an early start. A short stop at Ryuzu is enough if you are in a hurry, about twenty to thirty minutes including the walk, but allow an hour if you want to climb the paths beside the cascade and take your time on the deck.

A trail leads up along the falls toward the marsh, which makes a pleasant walk in good weather.

Know the seasons before you go. Colour in the highlands usually peaks earlier than in the valley, so by November the falls may be past their best, though the bare trees give a clear view of the whole length of the cascade. In winter the edges of the falls freeze into ice sculptures, though the observation deck is not always the safest place to stand when the ground is slippery. Wear shoes with a good grip and take it slowly.