Nikko Cedar Avenue

Long before there were trains or tour buses, pilgrims and daimyo reached Toshogu on foot, along avenues of cedar trees that are still standing today. The planting was begun in 1625 by Matsudaira Masatsuna, a feudal lord who wanted to honour Tokugawa Ieyasu and who gave the trees as an offering while the shrine was being renovated. The work was completed in 1648, around the thirty-third anniversary of Ieyasu's death. The result is a strip of tall, straight Japanese cedar, more than twelve thousand trees by the usual count, lining three old highways that all lead toward Nikko. Added together, the avenues run for well over thirty kilometres, and they are often described as the longest tree-lined road in the world. Many of the trunks are now enormous, and the road between them is cool, shaded and dim even on a bright day. There is no ticket, no gate and no opening time, so you can walk a stretch whenever you like.

The experience is atmospheric rather than dramatic. You walk or cycle along a narrow road or a footpath beside it, with trunks rising on either side like the columns of a vast hall and a green roof far overhead. In summer it is a welcome relief from the heat.

In autumn the ground is carpeted with needles, and in winter, after snow, the avenue becomes an almost monochrome landscape of dark trunks and white ground. It is a fine place for photographs because the trees frame the road so strongly, and it rewards quiet, unhurried walking.

Few visitors walk the whole thing, and you should not try. A sensible plan is to choose a short stretch, thirty to ninety minutes in length, and combine it with a visit to the shrines. The stretch closest to Toshogu is the most popular. A more peaceful option is to begin near Kami-Imaichi Station, which is only a short walk from the trees, and walk toward Nikko along the old highway, or to take the train there and back as a half-day side trip.

Footpaths run beside the road in places, but traffic still uses the road, so keep to the edge and take care in poor light.

There is a conservation story behind the trees. Cedars this old suffer from road traffic, root compaction and age, and local authorities run a programme of replanting and protection, with some trees adopted by donors. You may see young replacements among the old giants and signs explaining the work. Please stay on the paths and do not climb on the roots, which are shallow and vulnerable.

Plan around the weather and the light. The avenue is darker than most places, so a cloudy afternoon in late autumn can feel gloomy by mid-afternoon, and ice can linger on shaded stretches in winter. Wear proper walking shoes, bring water for longer walks, and check bus and train times before you head out, since the rural stretches are served less often than the central town. For a photographer or a walker who wants space and silence after the crowds, this is one of the most rewarding free things to do near Nikko.