Tlacolula de Matamoros is a town about thirty kilometres east of Oaxaca on the road to Mitla, and every Sunday its streets are taken over by one of the largest and most traditional markets in the region. People come from surrounding villages to buy and sell, and the market sprawls in every direction, with stalls spilling from the covered hall into the plaza and side streets. The variety is dazzling. You will find mountains of fruit and chiles, braided garlic, woven baskets, rope and sandals, copper pots, clay cooking vessels, ribbons and embroidered blouses, and a livestock area where goats, turkeys and piglets change hands. Food is the other great draw, from steaming barbacoa of goat and lamb with fresh tortillas and consomé to tamales, tlayudas and fresh juices. The church of the town has a famous chapel with a lavishly gilded interior, and it is open on market days for visitors who are respectful. Many guided tours combine the market with a mezcal stop, a textile workshop or the nearby Zapotec ruins, which makes it an easy part of a rich day in the eastern valley. It is lively, authentic and best enjoyed slowly.
Timing
The market is a weekly event, held on Sundays, and the busiest period is from mid-morning to early afternoon. Arrive earlier if you prefer cooler air and thinner crowds, and be prepared for narrow aisles and a lot of people. Other valley towns have their own market days, so the same area can be visited on different days of the week, but Tlacolula is the biggest and the best known. Because it is a market for locals first, you will see everyday goods alongside the crafts, and that is much of its charm.
What to eat and buy
Barbacoa, the slow-cooked goat or lamb served in the market's meat hall, is the signature meal, and many visitors choose a table, order by weight and add fresh tortillas, salsas and onions. Fresh mezcal, chocolate, cheese, cured meats and regional bread are also on offer, and artisan stalls sell baskets, woven palm goods, ceramics and textiles from villages across the valley.
Bring small bills and coins, because large notes can be hard to change, and carry a bag for purchases. Be sure to try the market juices and the sweet breads.
Practicalities
A guided tour is a good way to see the market because the guide can explain what you are seeing, introduce you to vendors and take care of transport. If you go independently, shared taxis and buses leave from the city, and the journey is short. Keep valuables secure, as in any crowded place, wear comfortable shoes, and ask before photographing vendors and their goods.
The livestock area is part of traditional commerce but may not suit everyone. Combine it with the Tule Tree, Teotitlán del Valle, Mitla or a mezcal distillery to make a full Sunday in the valley.
Good to know
The market has few facilities, so use a toilet before you arrive and carry hand sanitiser and tissues. Eat where the locals queue, choose food that is cooked in front of you and drink bottled water. Avoid carrying a large bag through the crowd, keep your phone in a front pocket and agree on a meeting point if you are travelling in a group.
What to expect
The experience
A guided walk through the Sunday market with food stops, craft stalls, the town church and the surrounding streets.
Best time
Sundays only, from mid-morning to early afternoon, with an earlier start for fewer crowds.
How long
About two hours in the market, three to four with transfers.
Tips
Bring small bills, wear comfortable shoes, keep valuables secure and ask before taking photos.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Food lovers and anyone who enjoys a real working market rather than a tourist one.
- Families
- Children may enjoy the animals and snacks, but the crowds are dense and the aisles narrow.
- Couples
- A lively, sensory morning followed by a long lunch of barbacoa.
- Pair with
- Teotitlán del Valle, Mitla and a mezcal distillery on the same valley day.
- Time needed
- Half a day, or a full day with other stops.
Good questions
When is the Tlacolula market?+
It is held every Sunday and is busiest from mid-morning to early afternoon.
How far is Tlacolula from Oaxaca?+
It is about thirty kilometres east of the city, on the road to Mitla, and takes roughly thirty to forty minutes by car.
What should I eat there?+
Barbacoa of goat or lamb is the traditional choice, along with tlayudas, tamales, fresh juices and sweet bread.
Is it suitable for children?+
It can be, but it is crowded and includes a livestock area, so keep an eye on small children.
Do I need a guide?+
Not strictly, but a guide helps you navigate, explains the goods and combines the market with other valley stops.
