Behind the riverfront lies a maze of lanes, called galis, so narrow that two people can barely pass and so old that some date to medieval times. They are the commercial and spiritual heart of Varanasi: little temples sit in courtyards, flower sellers thread marigold garlands, sweet shops fry jalebi in huge pans, silk and brocade stores spill colour into the alleys, and neighbourhoods specialise in brass, music or weaving. The maze is confusing, hot and crowded, and a local guide turns it from a stressful ordeal into the highlight of the trip. The Cultural and Spiritual Trails of Old Town Varanasi walk linked here lasts about two hours and is aimed at travellers who want to see the lanes safely and understand them. Expect to dodge motorbikes, ducking bullocks and fast-moving porters, to be offered chai at every corner, and to catch the smell of incense, frying dough and river water all at once. It is sensory, sometimes overwhelming and thoroughly rewarding, especially if you are happy to go slowly and look up.
The old city grew organically around the river and the great temples, which is why its lanes twist and double back. Different quarters developed around trades and communities: weavers in neighbourhoods such as Madanpura, brass and copperware in the markets, flower and sweet sellers near the main temple approaches, and music families scattered in the streets behind the ghats. Walking with a guide lets you read these layers, hear the stories attached to small temples and wells, and be introduced to shopkeepers who would otherwise be hurried strangers.
Safety and courtesy are practical matters here. The lanes are shared with motorbikes, handcarts and animals, so stay to the wall when you hear a horn, keep valuables inside a zipped bag and avoid carrying anything you cannot afford to lose. Shopkeepers are friendly but persistent, and a guide helps with polite refusals.
Dress modestly, remove shoes before entering any temple, and ask before taking portraits. Remember that some lanes lead to places of mourning, and that processions carrying the dead pass through them; step aside, keep quiet and do not take photographs of funeral processions.
Timing matters as much as route. Early morning lanes are cooler and calmer, with shrines being opened and flower stalls being set up, while late afternoon is livelier and louder. Midday is hot and shops may be closed, so it is the least pleasant time. The walk pairs naturally with a sunrise boat ride, because you can enter the lanes from a ghat after leaving the boat, and with a street food crawl, since the same lanes hold some of the city's best snacks.
Wear closed shoes you do not mind getting dusty, and carry a little cash for chai and tips.
What to expect
The experience
A guided two hour walk through the narrow lanes behind the ghats, stopping at courtyard temples, markets and craft quarters.
Best time
Early morning when the lanes are cooler and shrines are opening, or late afternoon when the markets are at their liveliest.
How long
Two hours at a slow pace, plus time to browse if you want to shop.
Tips
Stay close to the wall when motorbikes pass, keep valuables zipped, dress modestly and step aside for funeral processions without photographing them.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Curious travellers who want to see everyday Varanasi beyond the riverfront, and anyone nervous about getting lost.
- Families
- Fun for older children, but the lanes are narrow and busy, so strollers are impractical and small ones should hold hands.
- Couples
- A shared adventure of chai, sweets and hidden temples that makes a lovely contrast with the river.
- Pair with
- Join it with a sunrise boat ride or the street food crawl to cover both the lanes and the ghats in one day.
- Time needed
- Two hours, longer if you stop to shop.
Good questions
Is it easy to get lost in the old city?+
Yes, the lanes twist and look alike, so most visitors lose their bearings quickly. A guide or an offline map helps, and your hotel can give you a landmark to head for.
Is it safe to walk the lanes?+
Generally yes, though they are crowded and shared with motorbikes and animals. Keep valuables zipped and stay alert rather than worried.
Where can I see silk weaving?+
Weaving is concentrated in neighbourhoods such as Madanpura, and many shops in the lanes sell Banarasi silk. Ask your guide to introduce a trusted shop rather than following touts.
Can I photograph people in the lanes?+
Ask first and respect a refusal. Never photograph funeral processions or the cremation ghats.
What should I wear?+
Modest, light clothing with covered shoulders and knees, and closed shoes you can remove easily. The lanes are dusty and sometimes wet.
