India
Varanasi, also called Banaras and Kashi, is one of the oldest living cities on earth, a crescent of stone ghats along the western bank of the Ganges where pilgrims bathe at dawn, priests wave fire lamps at dusk and the old city lanes hum with bells, silk looms and frying sweets.
This guide books Varanasi properly: a rowing boat at sunrise, the nightly Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, a heritage walk through the ghats, the lanes behind them and a street food crawl, the Kashi Vishwanath Temple with its riverside corridor, and Sarnath, the quiet Buddhist site where the Buddha first taught. It adds the calmer side of the city, with Assi Ghat at dawn, the art and textiles of Bharat Kala Bhavan, the palace-fort of Ramnagar across the river and the southern temples of Sankat Mochan, Durga Kund and Tulsi Manas, with day trips to Chunar Fort and Bodh Gaya, and it handles the sensitive parts with care, including respectful etiquette near the cremation ghats. Then it matches you to a hotel, from a restored palace on the Ganges to a garden resort in Nadesar, with four travel guides on itineraries, food, seasons and day trips, because here where you sleep decides whether the river is at your door or a drive away.
Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat
Varanasi's nightly river ceremony, a half hour of fire lamps, conch shells, bells and chanting performed by young priests on raised platforms above the Ganges while thousands watch from the steps and from boats. Free to attend from the ghat, and the single most memorable evening in the city.
Sunrise Boat Ride on the Ganges
A rowing boat at first light is the classic way to see Varanasi: the whole crescent of ghats glowing in low sun, pilgrims bathing at the water's edge, priests at their morning prayers and temple towers rising behind. A gentle three hour glide that most visitors rank above every other experience in the city.
Sarnath, Where the Buddha First Taught
The deer park 13 kilometres north-east of Varanasi where the Buddha gave his first sermon: a calm green site of ruined monasteries, the huge Dhamek Stupa and a museum holding the Ashoka lion capital. The standard half-day trip, and a peaceful contrast to the intensity of the ghats.
Varanasi Ghats and Heritage Walk
A guided walk through the stories behind the ghats: who built them, what rituals happen on each, and where the river meets the old city's temples, akharas and lanes. A local guide turns a beautiful blur of steps into a place you understand, at a gentle pace and a very low price.
Hand-picked: every experience here has strong traveler reviews and a verified booking link.
Varanasi's nightly river ceremony, a half hour of fire lamps, conch shells, bells and chanting performed by young priests on raised platforms above the Ganges while thousands watch from the steps and from boats. Free to attend from the ghat, and the single most memorable evening in the city.
A rowing boat at first light is the classic way to see Varanasi: the whole crescent of ghats glowing in low sun, pilgrims bathing at the water's edge, priests at their morning prayers and temple towers rising behind. A gentle three hour glide that most visitors rank above every other experience in the city.
A guided walk through the stories behind the ghats: who built them, what rituals happen on each, and where the river meets the old city's temples, akharas and lanes. A local guide turns a beautiful blur of steps into a place you understand, at a gentle pace and a very low price.
The labyrinth of lanes behind the ghats is where Varanasi truly lives: courtyard temples, silk and brass shops, sweet makers, weavers' neighbourhoods and cows nosing through the market. A two hour guided walk takes you through without getting lost, and costs very little.
FreeThe Golden Temple of Varanasi, dedicated to Shiva as Lord of the Universe and one of India's most visited pilgrimage sites. The modern corridor links it directly to the Ganges. Entry is free, the queues are long and phones are not allowed inside, so a guided visit makes the day easier.
The deer park 13 kilometres north-east of Varanasi where the Buddha gave his first sermon: a calm green site of ruined monasteries, the huge Dhamek Stupa and a museum holding the Ashoka lion capital. The standard half-day trip, and a peaceful contrast to the intensity of the ghats.
Chaat, kachori, sweets and thandai, eaten standing up in the old city lanes with a local guide who knows which stalls are worth the queue. Two hours of tastings that explain Varanasi through its snacks, at a price that barely registers.
One of India's oldest university museums, set on the leafy Banaras Hindu University campus: eleven galleries of miniature paintings, sculpture, coins and Banarasi textiles. A calm, uncrowded counterweight to the ghats, well worth a weekday morning.
The red sandstone palace-fort of the Maharajas of Banaras, standing on the far bank of the Ganges opposite the ghats. Its museum holds royal carriages, costumes, weapons and a remarkable astronomical clock, and the view back over the city's skyline is unforgettable.
FreeThe southern end of the ghats, open day and night and calmer than Dashashwamedh: a morning of Vedic chants, music, yoga and meditation by the river, then tea, cafes and a slow walk north. Free, relaxed and favoured by students and long-stay travellers.
FreeA beloved riverside-district temple to Hanuman near Assi Ghat, founded in the sixteenth century by the poet-saint Tulsidas. Free to enter, busiest on Tuesdays and Saturdays, and famous for its besan ladoo prasad and its annual classical music festival.
FreeA striking red eighteenth-century temple beside a rectangular water tank, honouring Durga as the protector of Varanasi. Free to enter, famous for its monkeys and for its Navratri crowds, and an easy pairing with Tulsi Manas and Sankat Mochan.
Hotels we would book ourselves, from splurges to good-value bases.
$$$$Darbhanga Ghat, Old City
A restored heritage palace right on Darbhanga Ghat, with suites facing the Ganges, a riverside terrace and a hushed, heritage atmosphere in the middle of the old city. Varanasi's most atmospheric splurge.
Check rates →Nadesar
A five-star resort-style hotel set in about twelve acres of gardens in Nadesar, with a pool, spa and two restaurants. Easy parking, big rooms and calm, a world away from the lanes yet a short drive from the ghats.
Check rates →Shivala Ghat
A restored riverside haveli at Shivala Ghat with Ganges-facing rooms, courtyard charm and an unhurried southern-ghats location. A characterful mid-range heritage stay for couples and photographers.
Check rates →Cantonment
A dependable international-standard hotel in the Cantonment area with comfortable rooms, restaurants, easy road access and straightforward service. A practical city base for families, business travellers and anyone who prefers reliable comforts over heritage atmosphere.
Check rates →Meer Ghat, Old City
A budget-friendly riverside hotel at Meer Ghat, a few minutes on foot from Dashashwamedh Ghat and the temple area. Simple rooms, some with river views and a balcony, a vegetarian restaurant and a terrace over the Ganges.
Check rates →
$$Assi Ghat
A mid-range hotel in the Assi Ghat area at the southern end of the riverfront, with a terrace and garden, a library, a spa offering massages and a restaurant. A calmer base than the central lanes, close to Assi Ghat and Tulsi Ghat.
Check rates →Old City near Dashashwamedh
A mid-range hotel near Kashi Vishwanath Temple and Dashashwamedh Ghat, with a rooftop dining area, a terrace, a library, a spa, free Wi-Fi and free parking. A practical base for travellers who want to be close to the aarti and the old city lanes.
Check rates →What to book ahead, how to get around the lanes, how many days you need and where the ghats, the Ganga Aarti, Kashi Vishwanath and Sarnath fit into a first visit.
A neighbourhood guide to Varanasi: staying on the ghats for atmosphere, in Nadesar and Cantonment for space and ease, and which of our five hotels suits which trip.
A day-by-day plan for three days in Varanasi: the river and aarti on day one, the old city, temple and food on day two, then Sarnath and the southern temples and Assi Ghat on day three.
A guide to eating well in Varanasi: breakfast kachori and jalebi, tomato chaat, litti chokha, winter malaiyo, clay-cup lassi, Banarasi paan and how to eat safely and respectfully.
When to go to Varanasi: cool, clear winters for sightseeing, the heat of April to June, the monsoon and high water, plus the festivals that shape crowds and prices through the year.
The best day trips from Varanasi: Sarnath and Ramnagar Fort as easy half days, Chunar Fort as a longer outing, Bodh Gaya as a full day, and Prayagraj and Ayodhya as further pilgrimage options.
