Behind the facades of the riverfront palaces and down side lanes off the ghats lie dozens of ashrams, monasteries and teaching houses where Varanasi's spiritual life is lived day to day. Some belong to ascetic orders, some to schools of philosophy, some to traditional wrestling clubs known as akharas, and some to families of priests and teachers who have handed down their knowledge for generations. They are mostly invisible to casual visitors, because the doors are plain and the signs are small. A private walking tour with a knowledgeable guide opens a few of them. You may see a quiet courtyard where students recite Sanskrit verses, a small shrine where a lamp has burned for decades, a library of palm-leaf and paper manuscripts, an akhara where young men train with clubs and in the earth, or a community kitchen feeding pilgrims. Your guide explains the lineages, the daily routines and the differences between schools, and introduces you where appropriate. The mood is calm and respectful, and conversations can be unexpectedly personal, because residents are often glad to explain their path to people who ask politely. The walk moves along the ghats and through lanes at an easy pace, and gives a deeper view of the city as a place of study and devotion, not only of ritual spectacle.
Why go? Because the ashrams show the contemplative heart of Varanasi, the part that goes on quietly beside the crowds. You learn that the city is a centre of learning as much as pilgrimage, with traditions of grammar, philosophy, music, wrestling and medicine that have run for centuries. Visiting a few of these places adds a layer of understanding that no amount of ghat-watching can supply.
How to do it
The tour is private, so you can set the pace and tell the guide what interests you most: philosophy, yoga, music, wrestling or architecture. Dress modestly with covered shoulders and knees, remove shoes when asked, and keep your voice low. Always ask before taking photographs inside a building, and do not photograph residents at prayer or study without permission.
Some ashrams welcome donations, which your guide can explain, but nothing should be pressed on you. Be ready for steps, uneven stone and narrow passages, and bring water. Remember that these are homes and places of worship, not attractions, and that access depends on goodwill: a polite greeting and a patient manner open doors.
Who it suits
Thoughtful travellers, solo visitors, people interested in philosophy, yoga and religion, and anyone who has already seen the headline sights and wants a deeper layer. It is less suited to visitors who want entertainment or who find silence uncomfortable. Pair it with a sunrise boat ride for the river and with a yoga session on the ghats to experience a practice yourself.
Confirm with the operator when you book the meeting point, the length of the walk, which places are likely to be visited and whether the guide can arrange a conversation with a teacher, and be flexible, because access can change on the day.
The best moments are often unplanned. Even a short visit can change how the rest of the city looks, because once you know what happens behind the plain doorways, every lane feels a little more layered and every quiet courtyard a little less anonymous.
What to expect
The experience
A private guided walk visiting ashrams, akharas and teaching houses along the ghats and in the old city lanes.
Best time
Morning, when the communities are most active and the light is soft.
How long
Allow around three hours at an unhurried pace.
Tips
Dress modestly, remove shoes when asked, ask before photographing and keep your voice low.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Thoughtful travellers interested in the learning and religious life of Varanasi.
- Families
- Best for older children who can be quiet and respectful.
- Couples
- A calm, meaningful outing away from the crowds.
- Pair with
- A sunrise boat ride or yoga on the ghats.
- Time needed
- About three hours.
Good questions
What is an ashram?+
A residential spiritual community, school or retreat where teachers, monks and students live and practise. Varanasi has many.
What is an akhara?+
A traditional training ground for wrestling and martial exercise, often linked to a religious community.
Will I be able to talk with residents?+
Often, with your guide's introduction. Be polite and patient.
Can I take photographs?+
Only with permission. Ask before photographing inside buildings or of people.
Is the walk difficult?+
It involves steps and uneven lanes, so it suits those with reasonable mobility.
