Lithuanian food is hearty, simple and rooted in the potato, the beet, the cabbage, rye bread and the dairy and pork of a cold-climate country. It does not try to be fancy, and that is its charm: it is comfort food done with pride, and in recent years Vilnius cooks have added modern touches to the old recipes. If you eat with a little curiosity, you can have excellent meals in the capital at fair prices. This guide covers the dishes to know, the drinks to try and how to choose where to eat.
Cepelinai: the national dish
Named for their resemblance to zeppelin airships, cepelinai are large oval dumplings made of grated and riced potato, usually filled with minced meat, curd cheese or mushrooms, and served with sour cream and crispy bacon bits. They are filling, so one portion is plenty, and they are best shared if you want to try several dishes. Most traditional restaurants serve them, and the cooking varies, so ask which filling comes with the dish.
Šaltibarščiai: the summer soup
Cold beet soup, bright pink from kefir or buttermilk, with cucumber, dill and egg, and often served with hot boiled potatoes on the side, is the signature dish of the warm months. It is refreshing and unexpectedly delicious, and a good test of a kitchen. In winter, look instead for hot soups, dark rye bread and warming stews.
Other dishes to know
Kugelis is a baked potato pudding, often with bacon, and balandėliai are cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice. Skilandis is a smoked and cured pork sausage, and you will meet smoked meats, herring and pickles on many menus. Dark rye bread is a staple, sometimes fried into garlicky snack sticks served with cheese sauce, a popular bar bite. For something sweet, look for šakotis, a tall, spiky cake baked on a rotating spit, often served at celebrations.
Kibinai: the Karaim pastry
Baked half-moon pastries filled with minced meat and onion belong to the Karaim community of Trakai, and you can find them in Vilnius as well as at the lakeside. They are a simple, delicious lunch. A day trip to Trakai is the natural moment to have them in their home setting.
Drinks
Lithuania has a strong beer culture, with local lagers, dark beers and a growing craft scene, and farmhouse-style beers are a point of local pride. Midus, or mead, is a honey drink with a long history in the region, and many Old Town cellars serve it by the glass. Gira is a fermented rye-bread drink, similar to kvass, and non-alcoholic. For something stronger, herbal liqueurs and fruit spirits turn up on bar menus. Vilnius also has a lively wine and cocktail scene, with several well-regarded bars in the Old Town, and good coffee in many cafés, particularly in Užupis.
Where to eat
The Old Town has the highest concentration of restaurants, and the courtyards and side streets off Pilies and Didžioji are better value than the main drag. Užupis has relaxed cafés and bakeries, and Gedimino Avenue has a mix of cafés and restaurants for every budget. The Halės Market, a historic covered market near the Old Town, is a fine place to see local produce, cheese, smoked meats and baked goods, and to assemble a picnic. Telegrafas, the restaurant in the Grand Hotel Vilnius, is recognised in the MICHELIN Guide for those who want a serious dinner, but the city rewards simple eating as much as fine dining.
Cooking classes and tastings
If you want to learn rather than just eat, cooking classes teach cepelinai and other classics, and tasting experiences of local mead and snacks are available in Old Town cellars. These work well on a wet day and make good gifts of knowledge to take home.
A simple food day
Start with coffee and a pastry in Užupis, take a late breakfast or early lunch of dumplings or cold soup in an Old Town courtyard, snack on rye bread and cheese in the afternoon and finish with a sit-down dinner with a local beer or a glass of mead. Walking between meals along Pilies Street and through the side lanes makes room for each course.
Practical tips
Lithuania uses the euro, cards are accepted almost everywhere and a tip of around ten percent for good service is appreciated. Many restaurants offer a cheaper lunch menu on weekdays, which is the best way to eat well on a budget. Book popular restaurants on Friday and Saturday evenings, and look for the dish of the day. Vegetarians will find options, though traditional menus are meat-heavy, and a growing number of places cater for vegan diets. Ask about allergens, as English-speaking staff are common and helpful.
