For three weeks every July, Avignon becomes a stage. The Avignon Festival, founded in 1947, is France's most important celebration of theatre and the performing arts, and it has become one of the biggest events of its kind anywhere. The heart of the programme, known as the In, takes place in the Cour d'honneur of the Palais des Papes, in cloisters, school courtyards and halls across the city and surrounding area, and it presents new productions by leading directors, with theatre, dance, music and performance from many countries. Alongside it runs the Off, a huge, open fringe in which hundreds of companies perform in tiny halls, cellars and courtyards, so the streets fill with flyers, costumed performers and audiences from morning until midnight. The dates shift slightly each year, so confirm them on the festival's site before you plan. This is a July-only experience, so in the other eleven months you will find only the stage sets and the memory, but the atmosphere in July is unlike anywhere else in France.
How it works
The In has ticketed performances, often in French with surtitles or in other languages with French surtitles, and the most sought-after shows in the Cour d'honneur sell out quickly once booking opens, so the festival's how-to-book page is the place to check dates and how sales are organised. The Off is far more flexible: companies sell tickets at their venues and through their own booking systems, prices are modest, and you can see several shows in a day. Street performance and free events fill the squares.
Practical planning
July is also the hottest month, so expect daytime temperatures that make a lunchtime siesta sensible, and plan to see shows in the evening. Accommodation is the main challenge. Hotels fill and prices rise well in advance, so reserve as soon as the dates are known, and consider staying just outside the walls if the old town is full.
Palace and museum hours can change during the festival, and the main square becomes busy, so check the day's opening times if you want to combine the festival with a palace visit. Bring a fan, a water bottle and comfortable shoes, and carry small change for the fringe venues.
Combine it with Provence
Use the days for a Luberon outing, a Pont du Gard visit or a lavender tour, which falls in the same weeks, and keep the evenings for theatre. Many first-time visitors choose two or three shows rather than trying to see everything, mixing one big In production with a couple of Off shows picked from the programme.
The Rocher des Doms and the ramparts are quieter spots to escape the crowds. If July does not suit you, the city offers a calmer, cooler visit in spring and autumn, with the same sights and far fewer people.
What to expect
The experience
Ticketed theatre, dance and music performances in the Palais des Papes courtyard and venues across the city, plus a large open fringe and free street performance.
Best time
July only; evening performances, with daytime reserved for sightseeing and rest in the heat.
How long
About three weeks; most visitors attend two or three shows over a long weekend or a week.
Tips
Book tickets and hotels months ahead, check the festival's site for dates and booking dates, carry water and expect crowds and heat.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Theatre and performing-arts lovers, and travellers who like a buzzing city.
- Families
- The fringe has children's shows and street performance, but the heat and crowds can be tiring.
- Couples
- An evening under the stars in a historic courtyard is unforgettable.
- Pair with
- A Palais des Papes visit, the Rocher des Doms and a lavender tour in the same weeks.
- Time needed
- At least a weekend, ideally three or four days.
Good questions
When is the Avignon Festival?+
It takes place every July and lasts about three weeks. The exact dates shift slightly from year to year, so check the festival's site.
What is the difference between the In and the Off?+
The In is the main programme of new productions, including the Cour d'honneur of the Palais des Papes. The Off is an open fringe with hundreds of independent companies in venues across the city.
How do I get tickets?+
Ticketing for the In is organised through the festival's own site, and the Off sells through its venues. The festival's how-to-book page explains dates and methods.
Should I book a hotel early?+
Yes. Hotels fill and prices rise during the festival, so book as soon as the dates are known.
Is the festival worth planning a trip around?+
For theatre lovers, yes. If you prefer sightseeing without crowds and heat, visit in spring or autumn instead.
