Look west from the Rocher des Doms and the town on the far bank of the river is Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. In the fourteenth century it belonged to the French crown rather than the papacy, and the cardinals who served the popes in Avignon built grand residences there, away from the crowded city. The result is a peaceful small town of honey-coloured stone with a great deal of history for its size. At the foot of the bridge stands the Tour Philippe-le-Bel, a tower built by the French crown to watch over the river crossing. Higher up, the Fort Saint-André commands the hill, a fortified abbey with ramparts, gardens and sweeping views over the Rhône, Avignon and the Alpilles. In the town itself, the Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction, founded in the fourteenth century, was a monastery of Carthusian monks and is one of the largest in France, with cloisters, chapels and a garden. The town also has a collegiate church and a museum, and its streets are lined with the old cardinals' houses. Walking around Villeneuve costs nothing, although some monuments charge for entry, and it makes a pleasant contrast with the busy streets of Avignon.
The best way to understand Villeneuve is as the quiet side of the papal story. The cardinals needed somewhere to live and entertain near the pope, and across the river they could build large houses with gardens and enjoy a calmer life. Some of these livrées, as the cardinal residences are called, still stand, and the town retains a grand and sleepy character, with fewer cafes and shops than Avignon.
The views are the highlight
From the Fort Saint-André you see the Palais des Papes, the Pont Saint-Bénézet and the whole sweep of the city across the water, a view that explains why the French crown wanted a fortress here.
Getting there is easy. You can walk across the modern bridge from Avignon, which takes a good half hour or more depending on where you start, ride a bicycle, or take a local bus from the centre. Bring comfortable shoes, because the climb to the fort is uphill, and a hat and water in summer, since the hillside is exposed and hot.
Spring and autumn are the best seasons for walking, with soft light and mild weather, while winter days can be crisp and clear but windy. Opening hours for the fort, the charterhouse and the museum vary by season, so check each site's hours before you plan your route, and allow at least half a day if you want to go inside.
Combine Villeneuve with the rest of your Avignon plans. It works well on a day when you have already seen the Palais des Papes and want a slower pace, or on a quieter weekday when the main sights are busy. If you love views, it complements the Rocher des Doms and the ramparts, since you see the same skyline from the opposite bank.
Cyclists can link it into a longer ride, and photographers will find the golden light at sunset especially rewarding. A relaxed lunch in the town square, a stroll among the old houses and a climb to the fort make a very pleasant outing without the need to book anything in advance.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided walk through a quiet historic town across the Rhône, with the Tour Philippe-le-Bel, the Fort Saint-André, the Chartreuse and the old cardinals' houses.
Best time
Spring and autumn for comfortable walking, with late afternoon the best for light and views.
How long
A half day on foot, longer if you go inside the fort or the charterhouse.
Tips
Wear comfortable shoes for the climb, bring water and a hat in summer and check each monument's opening hours.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Walkers, photographers and history lovers who want a quiet change of pace and the best view of Avignon.
- Families
- A good outing for children who like castles and climbing, with plenty of space to roam.
- Couples
- Sunset from the fort, looking at the palace across the river, is hard to beat.
- Pair with
- The Rocher des Doms and the ramparts, which look across at the same skyline.
- Time needed
- A half day.
Good questions
Why is Villeneuve-lès-Avignon important?+
It was the French side of the river, where the cardinals of the Avignon popes built their country houses. It still has a charterhouse, a fort and a medieval tower.
How do I get there from Avignon?+
You can walk or cycle across the river, which takes a good half hour on foot, or take a local bus from the centre.
Is it free to visit?+
Walking around the town is free. Some monuments, such as the fort and the charterhouse, charge for entry, so check their pages.
What is the best view?+
The Fort Saint-André looks back across the Rhône to the Palais des Papes and the Pont Saint-Bénézet.
How long do I need?+
Half a day is comfortable if you walk, climb to the fort and have lunch. Allow more if you visit inside the monuments.
