Hanoi can look daunting with children, with its streams of scooters, narrow pavements and warm, busy streets. In practice it is a welcoming city for families, full of things that children enjoy: water puppets, boat rides, pottery, animals, snacks on tiny stools and a lake in the middle of town where locals gather to walk, exercise and play. A few adjustments make the trip easier, and a sensible rhythm of one big activity, a long lunch and a rest will keep everyone happy.
Set the pace
Children tire faster in the heat and the noise, so plan one main outing a day, preferably in the morning, and leave the afternoon for a rest at the hotel. A hotel with a pool is a real asset between the heat and the evening. Keep snacks, water and wipes in your bag, and take a short break in a cafe whenever the streets feel crowded. Autumn and spring are the most comfortable seasons for walking, while summer is hot, humid and stormy.
Crossing the road
This is the first lesson. Teach children to walk slowly and steadily, holding an adult’s hand, without stopping or running, and to let the scooters flow around them. Pavements are often blocked by parked bikes and food stalls, so you will walk on the road edge in places. Strollers are difficult in the Old Quarter, and a baby carrier is easier. The lake path around Hoan Kiem is flat and pleasant, and on weekend evenings several streets around it close to traffic, so families can wander freely.
Sights children enjoy
The Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre is a short, colourful show that works for most ages, with music, dragons and fish dancing on water, and no language needed. Hoan Kiem Lake and Ngoc Son Temple make an easy morning, with the red bridge and the legend of the giant turtle. The Vinpearl Aquarium at Times City is a good rainy-day choice, and the Lotte Observation Deck gives a view of the city from above. The Temple of Literature has quiet courtyards and stone turtles that children like to count. Older children who study history may be interested in the Military History Museum, while the Museum of Ethnology has an outdoor garden of full-size houses to explore.
Hands-on activities
Classes work well because children are busy rather than watching. The egg coffee class is short and sweet, and a version without caffeine is easy to arrange. A pottery workshop at Bat Trang lets children shape clay, and a cooking class turns market shopping and spring-roll rolling into a game. The silk village at Van Phuc shows looms and cocoons, and is a pleasant half-day outing. Tell the operator the ages of your children when you get tickets so that they can adapt the activities.
Food
Vietnamese food is usually mild at the table, with chillies and sauces added by the diner, so it suits children. Noodle soups, fresh spring rolls, grilled meat on rice and fried rolls are safe choices, and fruit is plentiful. Choose busy stalls where food is cooked fresh, drink bottled water and carry hand wipes. If your child is a picky eater, bread, plain rice and fruit shakes are always available.
Day trips
Long journeys by road can be hard for young children, so choose carefully. A Ha Long Bay day cruise is a long day, with several hours on the road, and an overnight cruise can be easier because you spend more time on the water and less time in the vehicle. Ninh Binh is a good family choice, with a gentle boat ride through caves and rice fields. Bat Trang and Van Phuc are short and close. Bring books, music and snacks for the road, and check whether the vehicle has seat belts and child seats before you go.
Health and safety
Pack sun protection, insect repellent and any medicines you need, and consider travel insurance that covers the family. Keep an eye on young children near the kerb, where scooters mount the pavement. Hotels will usually arrange cots and extra beds on request, so ask in advance. Pharmacies are easy to find in the Old Quarter, and many staff speak enough English for simple needs.
Sample plan
Day one: a slow morning at the lake, a noodle lunch and a water puppet show in the evening. Day two: the Temple of Literature in the morning, a rest and the egg coffee class in the afternoon. Day three: Bat Trang or Van Phuc for pottery or silk. Day four: an overnight bay trip or a Ninh Binh day. Keep one flexible day for rain or tiredness, and finish with a treat of ice cream by the lake.
