Kerala is a long, narrow state, so the trick to a good first trip is not to cram. The headline stops are Kochi and Fort Kochi, the backwaters of Alleppey and Kumarakom, the tea hills of Munnar, the wildlife around Thekkady and Periyar, and the cliffs of Varkala. Each is a different landscape, and the drives between them are long and slow on winding roads, so plan fewer places with more time in each.
How many days
Seven days is the minimum for a loop, and ten is comfortable. A sensible order is two nights in Kochi for the Fort Kochi heritage walk, the Chinese fishing nets, Mattancherry Palace and a Kathakali evening, then two nights in Munnar for the tea trail and Eravikulam National Park, one or two nights in Thekkady for Periyar, one night on a houseboat in Alleppey or at Kumarakom, and two or three nights on the beach at Varkala. If you only have five days, drop Thekkady or Varkala.
What to book ahead
In the main season from November to February, reserve the houseboat, hotels in Munnar and Thekkady, and any show or food walk in Kochi a week or more before you arrive. The Periyar lake boats are run by the state tourism corporation, with several departures a day from early morning to mid-afternoon. Confirmed boat tickets are generally non-refundable and you must reach the landing about 30 minutes early, so book the first boat if you want the best light.
Closures to know
Mattancherry Palace is closed on Fridays according to Kerala Tourism, with visiting hours from 10:00 to 17:00 on other days. Eravikulam National Park closes in February and March each year for the Nilgiri tahr calving season, so a November visit is in the open season. Check temple visiting hours and dress rules before you go, and expect places of worship to close for part of the afternoon.
When to go
November to February is the most comfortable season, with warm days, cooler evenings in the hills and calm water on the backwaters. The monsoon runs from June to September and brings heavy rain, green landscapes and rough seas at Varkala, when swimming is risky. Kerala Tourism names June to August as the ideal time for the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, but a winter trip also brings migratory birds.
Getting around
Kochi’s Cochin International Airport is the usual arrival point, and the airport is well over an hour from Fort Kochi by road, longer to Kumarakom, Munnar or Thekkady according to the hotel property pages. Hire a car with a driver for the hills, because the roads are steep and bendy and a driver knows the stops. In Fort Kochi use tuk-tuks and your feet, and agree the fare before you set off. Trains suit the long run south to Varkala.
Money and pace
Carry some cash for tuk-tuks, tips and small entry fees, though cards work at hotels and larger restaurants. Keep the first day light after a long flight, since the heat and humidity take a day to adjust to, and leave a buffer before any flight home because road journeys can run long.
Dress and etiquette
Cover shoulders and knees at temples and palaces, remove shoes where asked and ask before photographing people or rituals. Carry a light waterproof, insect repellent, sun protection and small notes for tips, shoe-minders and tuk-tuks. Drink bottled or filtered water, and choose busy stalls for street food.
Where the sights fit
Kochi covers heritage, food and culture. Alleppey and Kumarakom cover the backwaters and birds. Munnar covers tea, mist and the high grasslands of Eravikulam, with Anakulam for a jeep outing. Thekkady covers the Periyar boat cruise and spice gardens, and Varkala finishes with the sea. Build the trip as a line down the state, and let each stop have its own pace.
