Most visitors to the Loire see Chenonceau, Chambord and Amboise and go home happy. If you have an extra day or two, the quieter sights around Tours reward the effort, and each has a story that the great Renaissance châteaux do not tell. This guide groups five of them into day trips from Tours, with notes on how to combine them. A car makes most of them easier, but Langeais is on the rail line.
Chinon: the fortress where Joan of Arc met the king
The Royal Fortress of Chinon is a long ridge of walls and towers above the River Vienne, in effect three castles joined together. Henry II Plantagenet died here, and in 1429 Joan of Arc came to meet the future Charles VII. Allow two to three hours for the fortress, then walk down into the old town and try a glass of Chinon red, made from Cabernet Franc. It is about fifty kilometres from Tours.
Fontevraud Abbey: the Plantagenet tombs
Fontevraud is a huge monastic city whose abbey church holds the effigies of Eleanor of Aquitaine, Henry II and Richard the Lionheart. Wander the cloisters and the chapter house, and look for the Evraud kitchen with its cluster of chimneys. The abbey served as a prison for a century and a half after the Revolution and has since been restored. It lies close to Chinon, so the two make an excellent pairing for a full day.
Ussé: the Sleeping Beauty castle
A short drive from Chinon, Ussé is a white-towered château on the edge of the forest, said to have inspired the fairy tale. The tableaux in the towers delight children, the Renaissance chapel is a quiet highlight and the terraces look across the valley. It works well as a third stop on a Chinon day or on its own with children.
Loches: the walled royal city
About forty kilometres south-east of Tours, Loches is a hilltop town with a royal residence, the Logis Royal, and an eleventh-century keep. Agnès Sorel, the mistress of Charles VII, lies in a tomb in the Logis, and the dungeons hold stories of state prisoners. Spend two to three hours in the monuments and the rest of the visit in the old town. It is quieter than the big châteaux and pairs well with a lunch in the town or a stop at a nearby vineyard.
Langeais: fortress-palace and oldest stone keep
The Château de Langeais, twenty-five kilometres west of Tours, looks like a fortress from the street and a comfortable house from the courtyard. The staged wedding of Charles VIII and Anne of Brittany and the ruined keep in the park give the visit its interest. Langeais has a station on the line from Tours, so it is the best option for visitors without a car, and it combines with Villandry or Azay-le-Rideau on the same day.
Getting there and back
Without a car, the practical options are the train to Langeais, the regional trains and buses that serve the towns of the valley, and a taxi or small-group tour for the rest. With a car, you can see two sights in a morning and an afternoon with a long lunch in between, but allow for narrow village roads and for parking, which is usually simple and sometimes paid. In winter, aim to finish by late afternoon, because the light fades early and some of the minor roads are unlit.
Suggested combinations
For a western day, take Langeais, Villandry and Azay-le-Rideau, with a lunch in one of the villages. For a southern day, add Loches and a wine stop. For a day of history, combine Chinon and Fontevraud, with Ussé if you have energy for a third stop. For a sunrise or evening on the river, add a balloon flight on another day, since flights run from spring to autumn and depend on the weather.
Practical advice
Plan no more than two or three stops. Check opening hours for your date, because winter hours are shorter and some sights have midday breaks. Allow time for lunch, since kitchens in small towns close early. If you do not drive, a small-group tour or taxi from Tours can link Chinon, Ussé and Fontevraud, and a private driver is worth considering for a family.
