Egypt
Luxor and Aswan are where Egypt's ancient story is told at full scale, and where the Nile still sets the rhythm of the day.
Luxor, the old Thebes, holds the colossal columns of Karnak, the floodlit pylon of Luxor Temple, and across the river the cliffs of the West Bank, where pharaohs were buried in the Valley of the Kings and Hatshepsut raised her terraced temple against the rock. Aswan, a few hours upriver, is slower and more Nubian: granite islands, white-sailed feluccas, the island temple of Philae and, far to the south beside Lake Nasser, the rock-cut colossi of Abu Simbel. This guide books both ends of the valley properly: Karnak, Luxor Temple, the Valley of the Kings and Hatshepsut with a sensible plan for the heat, a sunrise hot-air balloon over the West Bank, an Aswan sunset felucca, Philae by boat, the early start for Abu Simbel, a Nubian village visit and a short Nile cruise between the two cities. Then it matches you to the right hotel, from the Victorian terraces of the Old Cataract to a West Bank courtyard hideaway, because in a land of early starts and midday heat, where you sleep decides how well you see the temples.
Karnak Temple
The largest ancient religious complex in the world, a forest of colossal columns, obelisks and sanctuaries built over some two thousand years. Karnak is the single sight that justifies the trip to Luxor, and it rewards an early start and a slow walk.
Valley of the Kings
The hidden royal cemetery where the pharaohs of the New Kingdom were buried in rock-cut tombs, painted from floor to ceiling. A standard ticket covers a rotating choice of tombs, with Tutankhamun and a few others as paid extras.
Hot-Air Balloon over the West Bank
A sunrise balloon flight is the signature Luxor experience: drifting silently over the green strip of the Nile, the desert edge and the temples of the West Bank as the sun comes up. It means a very early start and rewards you with a view you will not forget.
Luxor Temple
The riverside temple in the middle of the modern city, floodlit at night and easy to combine with a stroll along the Corniche. Smaller than Karnak but beautifully preserved, it is the best sunset-to-evening sight in Luxor.
The largest ancient religious complex in the world, a forest of colossal columns, obelisks and sanctuaries built over some two thousand years. Karnak is the single sight that justifies the trip to Luxor, and it rewards an early start and a slow walk.
The riverside temple in the middle of the modern city, floodlit at night and easy to combine with a stroll along the Corniche. Smaller than Karnak but beautifully preserved, it is the best sunset-to-evening sight in Luxor.
The hidden royal cemetery where the pharaohs of the New Kingdom were buried in rock-cut tombs, painted from floor to ceiling. A standard ticket covers a rotating choice of tombs, with Tutankhamun and a few others as paid extras.
A dramatic three-tiered temple of colonnaded terraces set against the cliffs of Deir el-Bahari, built for the only woman to rule Egypt as pharaoh in her own right. The architecture is unlike anything else on the Nile.
A sunrise balloon flight is the signature Luxor experience: drifting silently over the green strip of the Nile, the desert edge and the temples of the West Bank as the sun comes up. It means a very early start and rewards you with a view you will not forget.
A short sail on a traditional white-sailed felucca around the granite islands of Aswan is the gentlest and most beautiful way to meet the Nile. Go at sunset, when the light turns the river gold and the desert hills pink.
The graceful temple of Isis, rescued from the rising waters of the Nile and rebuilt on an island near Aswan. You arrive by small boat, which makes it one of the most atmospheric temples in Egypt.
Ramesses II's great rock-cut temples, guarded by four colossal seated statues beside Lake Nasser. It is a long, early day from Aswan, and one of the most astonishing sights in Egypt.
Colourful houses, henna, camels and tea with a Nubian family, reached by a short boat ride from Aswan. It is the best way to meet living Nubian culture rather than only the ancient temples.
Three or four nights on a cruise ship between Aswan and Luxor, stopping at the temples of Kom Ombo and Edfu along the way. It is the classic way to see Upper Egypt, with the hotel moving with you.
Hotels we would book ourselves, from splurges to good-value bases.
Aswan Corniche
Aswan's grand Victorian palace on a granite bluff above the Nile, a few minutes from Elephantine Island. An infinity pool, a spa and a famous terrace make it the splurge of the south.
Rates on Expedia →
$$$West Bank
A courtyard hideaway on Luxor's West Bank, an eight-hectare estate of antique-filled suites, gardens, a pool and a hammam. Quiet, romantic and close to the Valley of the Kings.
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$$$New Karnak, East Bank
A full-service Nile resort in New Karnak with a spa, several restaurants and a Nile-view pool, about a kilometre from Karnak Temple. A comfortable, family-friendly mid-range base.
Rates on Expedia →Aswan Corniche, near the Nubian Museum
A mid-range Corniche hotel opposite the Nubian Museum, with an outdoor pool, free breakfast and river-view rooms. Elephantine Island is a short walk away.
Rates on Expedia →
$Luxor Temple, East Bank
A friendly budget hotel a minute's walk from Luxor Temple, with a rooftop restaurant and a strong guest rating. The best-located affordable base on the East Bank.
Rates on Expedia →How to plan your first trip to Upper Egypt: how many days you need, what to book ahead, how to beat the heat, and where Karnak, the Valley of the Kings, Philae and Abu Simbel fit.
A guide to choosing a base in Luxor and Aswan, comparing the East Bank, the West Bank and the Aswan Corniche, with our hotel picks for each budget.
