Marseille is one of the best-value cities in France, because its greatest sights are outdoors and many of its museums and monuments cost nothing. The harbour, the hills, the sea and the old quarters are free, and the food scene runs from cheap street snacks to long seafood lunches. Here is a plan for enjoying the city on a tight budget.
Free sights
Start with Notre-Dame de la Garde, the basilica on its rocky hill, which is free to enter and open every day, and whose terrace gives the best view of the city and the sea. Next, the Vieux-Port and Le Panier cost nothing to wander, and the fish market on the Quai des Belges is a morning show. The Vieille Charité, in the heart of Le Panier, has free permanent collections in its museums of Mediterranean archaeology and non-European arts, and its courtyard is among the most beautiful places in the city; note that it is closed on Mondays. At the Mucem, the rooftop, the ramparts of Fort Saint-Jean and the outdoor spaces are free, though the exhibitions require a ticket, and the museum is closed on Tuesdays. The Palais Longchamp, with its colonnade, cascade and lions, and its park are also free to enjoy from the outside, while the museums in its wings set their own prices.
The coast and the sea
The Corniche Kennedy is a wonderful free walk, about three kilometres from the Palais du Pharo to the Prado beaches, with views of the islands and the Château d’If. On the way you pass the Vallon des Auffes, a tiny fishing harbour under a three-arched bridge, and the beaches of Prophète and Catalans. The Prado beaches are free public beaches with playgrounds. Swimming from the rocks under the bridge at the Vallon is free but unsupervised, so take care. On one Sunday a month, motor traffic is usually suspended on part of the Corniche, which makes it even more pleasant for walkers and cyclists, though this does not normally happen in July and August.
Walking the Calanques
The Calanques National Park is free to enter, and its trails are among the best things to do in the region. From 1 October to 31 May the massif is open unless exceptionally closed. From 1 June to 30 September access depends on fire risk, and a colour-coded map published daily shows which areas are open, so check before you set out. Bring plenty of water, sun protection and proper shoes, because there are no shops in the heart of the park. Several coves have small beaches, and swimming costs nothing.
Getting around cheaply
The centre is compact, and walking is the cheapest way to see it, though the hills are steep. The metro, trams and buses use the same ticketing system, and buses such as the 60 to Notre-Dame de la Garde and the 83 along the Corniche to the Vallon des Auffes are the cheapest way to reach the far sights. Check the current ticket and day-pass options at the stations, since fares change. The harbour ferry across the Vieux-Port is a small treat and a cheaper alternative to a boat tour.
Eating cheaply
Panisse, the chickpea fritters, and a slice of pizza are the classic cheap snacks. The Noailles quarter, above the Canebière, is the best place for inexpensive lunches, with North African bakeries, spice shops and market stalls, and a picnic of bread, olives, cheese and fruit by the sea is hard to beat. Many restaurants offer a set lunch menu at a lower price than dinner, so make lunch your main meal and keep dinner light. Avoid the restaurants right on the harbour front, which charge for the view, and walk a few streets back for better value.
Where to spend a little
If you can stretch the budget, spend on one or two experiences that make the trip. A boat tour in the Calanques with swimming, or a guided e-bike ride, gives a lot for a moderate price. A good food tour is cheaper than a multi-course restaurant dinner and covers many dishes. The Cosquer Méditerranée cave replica is worth a ticket for the story, and the Mucem exhibitions are worth a ticket on a rainy day.
Cheap places to stay
Marseille has a strong range of modest hotels. The Hotel Hermès, near the port, is our budget pick, and the Mama Shelter near the Cours Julien offers style at lower rates than the harbour hotels. Book early for summer and for home matches at the Vélodrome, when prices rise, and check whether breakfast is included before you decide.
