Kirifuri Falls

Kirifuri Falls is the easy waterfall. Of Nikko's three great falls, it is the one nearest the town, in the hills above the stations, and it makes a rewarding short trip when the mountain roads are closed or the weather is poor higher up. The water drops about seventy-five metres in two tiers, the upper one a straight plunge and the lower one a broader, fanning slide over the rock. The name means Falling Mist, and in damp weather the spray does float across the slope in a soft haze, which is the best time to see why it was named that. An observation deck stands close by, and a walk of around fifteen minutes from the nearest bus stop leads down to it through trees. There is no entry fee. The setting is green and quiet, with a rushing sound that grows as you descend.

The walk is part of the pleasure. From the bus stop a path follows the slope, with the sound of the falls building before they come into view, and then you reach a viewing platform that frames the whole two-tier drop at once. In autumn the maples and other broadleaf trees around the falls turn red and orange, and the contrast with the white water is superb, which is why the tourism association singles out the season.

In summer the shade and the spray are cool, in spring there is fresh green, and in winter the falls can partly freeze, though the path may then be icy and the bus service reduced.

Getting there is simple. Take a bus bound for Tobu Kirifurikogen or Ozasa Bokujo from either Nikko station, and the ride takes roughly ten minutes. Get off at the stop for the falls, then follow the signs and the path. The buses are less frequent than those to the shrines, so check the timetable for the return before you go down to the falls, and allow a total of an hour to ninety minutes for the outing, including the walk back up.

The path is mostly good but includes steps, and the climb back is the harder direction.

The falls fit well into a relaxed Nikko plan. They are far less crowded than Kegon, and they take much less time than a day in the upper valley, so they work as a half-day add-on, a rainy-day alternative, or a first stop before the shrines on a day when you are short on time. If you have two days in Nikko, you can tick off all three great waterfalls: Kirifuri on the first afternoon, and Kegon and Ryuzu on the day you go up to Lake Chuzenji.

The area above the falls, a highland known as Kirifuri Kogen, has its own walks and, in the right season, flowers, and it is worth asking at the information desk at the station what is on.

A few practical points help. Wear shoes with a good grip, because the path and deck can be wet. Bring a light jacket, as the air near the falls is cool and damp. Visit in the morning for fewer people and better light, and avoid going in heavy rain or immediately after, when the paths are muddy. There are limited facilities near the falls, so bring water and have a meal in town. It is a simple outing, but it gives a first taste of Nikko's waterfalls with very little effort.