Beside Dante's tomb stands the Basilica of San Francesco, a quiet church with one of the most unusual interiors in Ravenna. Its origins go back to the fifth century, when a basilica dedicated to the apostles Peter and Paul was founded here, but what you see now is the result of many centuries of rebuilding, with a Romanesque bell tower and a calm nave of columns and arches. The church passed to Franciscan friars in the thirteenth century and later took their name. It was here that the funeral of Dante was held in 1321, and the sense of that moment lingers. But the big surprise lies beneath the high altar: a crypt, flooded for most of the year, where the original mosaic floor lies under a shallow layer of water.
The crypt is the highlight. Because the water table in Ravenna is high, the tenth-century crypt has been underwater for centuries, and instead of draining it, the custodians have kept it as a feature. A viewing platform lets you look down through clear water at the geometric mosaic pavement, and a few goldfish swim lazily over the tesserae, a sight that surprises nearly everyone.
It is a delightful illustration of the way the city has sunk and been reclaimed, and it is a good place to explain to children why Ravenna's floors are below street level.
Above ground, the nave is simple, with a timber roof and a plain apse. Old altar fragments and sarcophagus pieces sit in the side areas. There is no ticket, and the church is usually open for short hours on most days, with a closing over midday, so check hours locally. You can pair it with the nearby tomb of Dante and the museum in the former cloisters to build a compact Dante route.
A visit takes ten to twenty minutes, which makes it a handy add-on to a morning of walking. Dress modestly, speak quietly and consider leaving a small donation for the upkeep of the crypt. The surrounding streets are some of the most atmospheric in town, with brick walls, narrow lanes and small shops, and a coffee at a nearby bar rounds out the stop nicely. For travellers who like quirky details, this is one of the best little discoveries in Ravenna.
What to expect
The experience
A short visit to a calm brick church with a viewing platform over a flooded crypt of ancient mosaics.
Best time
Morning, as the church often closes for a midday break.
How long
15 to 20 minutes.
Tips
Look for the goldfish in the crypt and check opening hours locally.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Curious travellers who like unusual details.
- Families
- Children love the fish in the crypt.
- Couples
- A quiet, atmospheric stop.
- Pair with
- Dante's Tomb and the Dante audio walk.
- Time needed
- Fifteen to twenty minutes.
Good questions
Why is the crypt flooded?+
Ravenna's water table is high and the ground has sunk over centuries, so the crypt floods naturally and has been kept that way.
Are there really fish?+
Yes, goldfish have long lived in the crypt water, and viewers can spot them from the platform.
Is entry free?+
Entry is normally free, with donations welcome.
What is the link with Dante?+
His funeral took place here in 1321, and his tomb is just beside the church.
When is it open?+
Hours vary and there is often a midday break, so check locally before you go.
