Split is easy to like and easy to plan badly. The old town is tiny, the headline sights sit within a few hundred metres of one another, and the real decisions are about timing, tickets and which day trips to add. Here is how to approach a first visit.
Understand the layout
Split is built around Diocletian's Palace, a Roman imperial residence from around 300 AD that became a living town. The Riva promenade runs along its south wall at the harbour, the Peristyle is the central courtyard, and the Golden Gate on the north leads out to the statue of Gregory of Nin. Everything in the old town is walkable, the lanes are stone and car-free, and a map helps less than simply wandering. Marjan Hill rises to the west, the Bačvice beach district lies to the east, and the bus and ferry stations are by the port.
Start with a guided walk
The palace is free to enter, but it is hard to read alone, because Roman, medieval and later layers are mixed together. A ninety-minute guided walk explains the gates, the Peristyle and how a medieval town grew inside an emperor's home. Do it early, before the cruise groups arrive, or late in the day when the stone is quiet.
Book and buy these
The cathedral and bell tower are the best paid sight: the climb is over three hundred steps with no lift, and a combined ticket covers the cathedral, treasury, crypt and baptistery. The palace cellars are open daily in winter, from nine to five, from November to late March, with closures on a few public holidays. Salona and the Meštrović Gallery are quieter alternatives, and the gallery is closed on Mondays. For day trips, book ahead in busy months, particularly Krka and the Blue Cave speedboat.
Choose day trips by season
Klis Fortress, Salona and Trogir work all year and fit in half a day each. Krka National Park is open year-round, with winter hours of nine to four from November to February, but the boat from Skradin usually stops in mid-November and swimming is a summer feature. Plitvice is a very long day, about twelve hours, with icy boardwalks in winter. The Blue Cave and Hvar speedboat tour is seasonal, roughly April to October, so it is not a November plan. If you only have time for one big trip, make it Krka.
How many days
Two days is the minimum: one for the palace, cellars, cathedral and Riva, and one for a half-day trip such as Klis and Salona or Trogir. Three days adds Marjan, the Meštrović Gallery and either Krka or an island trip in season. Four to five days suit travellers who also want Plitvice and time on the water.
Getting around
Walk. The old town, the Riva and the foot of Marjan are within fifteen minutes of one another. Use local buses or taxis for Salona, Klis and Trogir, and a taxi for the Žnjan seafront. A rental car is useful for several day trips but unnecessary otherwise, and parking in the old town is limited.
Eating and timing
Prices on the Riva are higher than in the side streets. Eat a block back from the front, and in winter expect some places to close early or for a few weeks. Evenings, when locals stroll the Riva and the palace lanes fill, are the best time to be out.
Dress and practicalities
Wear shoes with grip, since the polished limestone is slippery in rain. Cover shoulders and knees for the cathedral. Carry some cash for small museums and park entries, and check hours for any site you build a day around, since winter schedules differ from summer.
