Kalon Minaret and Po-i-Kalyan Complex

The Po-i-Kalyan complex, whose name means at the foot of the great one, is the architectural centrepiece of Bukhara. Its anchor is the Kalyan Minaret, built in 1127 and rising about forty-six metres, a tapering brick tower with bands of patterned brickwork that was so impressive that, according to the often-told story, Genghis Khan ordered it spared when he sacked the city. Beside it stands the Kalyan Mosque, one of the largest in Central Asia, with a huge courtyard framed by galleries of domes and arches that can hold thousands of worshippers. Facing the mosque across the square, the Mir-i-Arab Madrasa, founded in 1535, rises in blue-tiled splendour and still functions as a religious school, so it is generally admired from outside rather than visited. The result is a square where the scale of Bukhara's religious life feels clear at once. You can walk the court of the mosque when it is open to visitors and photograph the minaret from several angles; access to the minaret itself is not available, and arrangements at each building can change, so a guide who knows current rules is useful. A private old-town tour with a local expert ties the complex into a route through the rest of the historic centre.

The history layers deep. The minaret was built under the Karakhanid ruler Arslan Khan and served both as a call-to-prayer tower and, in the tales, as a lookout and a place from which condemned prisoners were once thrown, which earned it the nickname Tower of Death. The Kalyan Mosque dates from the early sixteenth century in its present form, on the site of an earlier mosque destroyed by the Mongols. The Mir-i-Arab Madrasa dates from the Shaybanid era, in the 1530s, and is one of the few functioning madrasas in Uzbekistan, which is why access is limited.

Working the visit: arrive early, when the square is quiet and the light is soft on the brickwork. Stand in the middle of the square to take in the full ensemble, then enter the mosque courtyard if open, where the galleries and the large central space reward a slow walk. A guide can explain the layout and the stories. Photographers should return in the evening, when the minaret is lit and the square is calm. Respect the religious function of the buildings, with modest clothing, covered shoulders and knees, and quiet voices.

When to go and what to avoid: the complex lies a few minutes from Lyab-i Hauz on foot, so it fits naturally into an old-town walk. Midday summer heat on the open square is intense, so aim for morning or late afternoon. Opening arrangements for the mosque and neighbouring sights may change around prayer times and religious holidays, so confirm locally. Souvenir sellers cluster nearby; browse politely and bargain with a smile. Combining the complex with the trading domes, the Ark and the Samanid Mausoleum makes a full and rewarding day, especially with a private guide who can set the pace.