Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan is the Silk Road in turquoise tile.
Samarkand, Timur's capital, gathers its glory around the Registan, three facing madrasas whose blue and gold facades are among the great sights of the Islamic world, and around the Shah-i-Zinda avenue of tombs, Gur-e-Amir where Timur himself is buried, the ruined bulk of Bibi-Khanym mosque and the observatory of the astronomer-king Ulugh Beg. Bukhara, four to five hours of road or about two hours of Afrosiyob train away, is a different pleasure: a lived-in old city of trading domes, a pond-side square at Lyab-i Hauz, the soaring Kalyan Minaret and the great fortress of the Ark, all within an easy walk. This guide books Uzbekistan the practical way, with guided city tours for the sights that reward a guide, a day trip to Timur's birthplace at Shakhrisabz, and the high-speed Afrosiyob link from Tashkent that makes the whole route possible in a single week. Then it matches you to the right bed in each city, from a five-star hotel on Registan's doorstep to a courtyard boutique hotel a few minutes from Lyab-i Hauz.
Registan Square
Three monumental madrasas face each other across a sandy square, their facades covered in blue, turquoise and gold tile. The Registan is the postcard of Uzbekistan and the reason most people come to Samarkand. A guided city tour explains what you are looking at.
Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis
A narrow avenue of mausoleums climbing a hillside, every facade a different pattern of glazed tile in blues, greens and whites. Shah-i-Zinda is Samarkand's most atmospheric site and a place of living pilgrimage. Go with a guide who knows which tomb is which.
Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum
The tomb of Timur, crowned by a ribbed turquoise dome and lined inside with gold and a dark jade cenotaph. Gur-e-Amir is where the conqueror and his heirs rest and the template for later Mughal tombs. Best seen on a guided city tour.
Ulugh Beg Observatory
The remains of a fifteenth-century observatory where Timur's grandson charted the stars. A curved underground trench is all that survives of a giant sextant, with a small museum alongside. A quiet stop for science and history lovers.
Three monumental madrasas face each other across a sandy square, their facades covered in blue, turquoise and gold tile. The Registan is the postcard of Uzbekistan and the reason most people come to Samarkand. A guided city tour explains what you are looking at.
A narrow avenue of mausoleums climbing a hillside, every facade a different pattern of glazed tile in blues, greens and whites. Shah-i-Zinda is Samarkand's most atmospheric site and a place of living pilgrimage. Go with a guide who knows which tomb is which.
The tomb of Timur, crowned by a ribbed turquoise dome and lined inside with gold and a dark jade cenotaph. Gur-e-Amir is where the conqueror and his heirs rest and the template for later Mughal tombs. Best seen on a guided city tour.
The giant ruined mosque Timur built after his Indian campaign and, right beside it, Samarkand's liveliest market, piled with bread, dried fruit and spices. A good pairing for a slower half-day with no booking needed.
The remains of a fifteenth-century observatory where Timur's grandson charted the stars. A curved underground trench is all that survives of a giant sextant, with a small museum alongside. A quiet stop for science and history lovers.
A walkable old city of trading domes, madrasas and alleys, centred on Lyab-i Hauz, a pond ringed by mulberry trees and teahouses. A small-group walking tour is the easiest way to see how it all fits together.
A single great minaret, a vast mosque and a facing madrasa form Bukhara's most commanding ensemble. The Kalyan Minaret has dominated the skyline since the twelfth century. A private old-town tour gets you inside the sights that are open.
A fortress-city on a mound, home to Bukhara's rulers for centuries, now holding museums and a seventeenth-century mosque. Mostly ruin after 1920 but still imposing. A full-day old-city tour includes it with the other sights.
The 250 km/h Afrosiyob high-speed train links Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara in comfort. An all-inclusive day trip from Tashkent rides it to Samarkand for the big sights and back, ideal for short visits.
Timur's birthplace, over a mountain pass south of Samarkand, with the vast ruined gateway of his Ak-Saray palace and the royal tombs. A quiet, uncrowded day trip with a drive through the hills.
Hotels we would book ourselves, from splurges to good-value bases.
Central Samarkand, near the Registan
A five-star Accor hotel on Shohruh Mirzo street in central Samarkand with the Registan on its doorstep, plus a pool, spa and the daily Chocolate Hour. The comfortable splurge for the sights.
Rates on Expedia →Grebnoy Kanal, Samarkand
A dependable four-star Hilton on Grebnoy Kanal with free parking, a restaurant and bar and a fitness center. A good-value base for travellers who want brand consistency and are happy to taxi to the sights.
Rates on Expedia →Near Registan, Samarkand
A budget-friendly hotel with a garden, a terrace and a seasonal outdoor pool, about a three-minute drive from the Registan. A straightforward, good-value base for sightseers.
Rates on Expedia →Old Town, Bukhara
A four-star Accor hotel on Samarkand Street with a terrace restaurant, a pool and spa and on-site parking. A comfortable, well-equipped base in Bukhara for travellers who like international-standard service.
Rates on Expedia →Lyabi Hauz, Bukhara
A courtyard boutique hotel in the Lyabi Hauz district, about three minutes on foot from the pond and five from the Kalyan Minaret. Free breakfast, a terrace and charm at a gentle price.
Rates on Expedia →How to plan a first trip to Uzbekistan's Silk Road cities: what to book ahead, how to use the Afrosiyob train, how many days Samarkand and Bukhara need and where each headline sight fits.
A guide to the best areas to stay in Samarkand and Bukhara, from a five-star on the Registan's doorstep to a courtyard boutique hotel steps from Lyab-i Hauz.
