Food in La Paz is a pleasure for anyone who likes bold, hearty cooking and a lively market atmosphere. The cuisine draws on Andean staples such as potatoes, corn and quinoa, on the meats and sauces of Spanish tradition and on the produce of the warm Yungas valleys below the city. Eating well here is easy and often cheap, as long as you are sensible about where you eat. This guide covers what to try and how to enjoy it.
Salteñas for a mid-morning snack
The salteña is the national pastry, a baked, slightly sweet dough filled with a juicy stew of meat or chicken, potato and peas, often with a touch of chili. They are eaten in the morning, usually between about nine and noon, and are sold out by lunchtime. Hold the pastry upright, bite off the top and sip the juice before it spills. Many bakeries and small cafes sell them, and you will see queues at the popular ones.
Street food and market stalls
Markets and street corners offer anticuchos, skewers of beef heart with potatoes and peanut sauce, and a long list of fried and grilled snacks. In the morning, try api, a hot purple corn drink, with a fried pastry. Market lunches often start with a soup, followed by a plate of meat, rice, potatoes and salad at a fixed price. Choose busy stalls with fresh turnover, watch that food is cooked hot in front of you and avoid raw salads and ice if your stomach is sensitive. Guided food tours are a good way to taste a lot in a short time, and they often include the markets of the center and a ride on the cable car.
Hearty plates to know
Silpancho is a thin breaded beef cutlet over rice and potatoes, topped with a fried egg and a tomato-onion relish. Pique macho piles sausage, beef, fried potatoes, onion and peppers into a generous shared dish. Sopa de maní, a peanut soup, is a comforting starter, and chairo, a stew of dried potato, vegetables and meat, is a traditional highland dish. Vegetarians can find quinoa dishes, cheese-filled pastries, fried bananas and fresh vegetables, but should ask about meat stock in soups.
Fish from Lake Titicaca
On a day trip to Copacabana and the lake, the local specialty is trout, grilled or fried and served with rice and potatoes at simple lakeside restaurants. It is fresh, filling and a good reward after a morning on the boat. Many tours leave lunch to you, so check beforehand whether meals are included and bring cash to pay at the table.
Drinks
Coca tea, made from the leaves of the coca plant, is offered in hotels and cafes and is widely used to ease mild altitude symptoms. Bolivian beer, from the Paceña brand and others, is easy to find. Singani, a grape brandy produced at high altitude in the south of the country, is the national spirit and is often mixed in a chuflay with ginger ale and lime. Coffee from the Yungas has an increasing reputation, and specialty cafes in the center and the southern zone serve it well. Remember that alcohol hits harder at altitude, so go slowly, especially in the first two days.
Fine dining and cooking classes
La Paz has developed a modern restaurant scene that celebrates native ingredients, with tasting menus using Amazon fruit, Andean grains and high-altitude produce. Reservations are advisable, and prices are usually well below those of comparable restaurants in Europe or North America. If you enjoy cooking, a class that starts with a market visit is a fun way to learn the basics of salsas, soups and stews.
Food safety and practical tips
Drink bottled or purified water, check that fruit is peeled or washed in safe water, and carry basic remedies for an upset stomach. Take it easy with rich food on your first day, since digestion can slow at altitude. Carry small bills, because many market stalls and small restaurants do not take cards. Opening hours vary, with many places closed on Sunday evenings, so ask your hotel for recommendations. Some of the best meals come from the places that are busy with locals at lunchtime, and a short phrase of Spanish for ordering goes a long way.
